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Rick-T



Member Since: 04 Aug 2016
Location: Auckland
Posts: 12

New Zealand 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Bonatti Grey
Rick-T's 300tdi rebuild
Hello all, I'm kicking off the rebuild on my trusty '97 110 CSW. The chassis is rotten and I've sourced a replacement that is being galvanised so in the mean time I've started stripping the truck down to see what I'm dealing with throughout the rest of the vehicle...

Day 1 - Dynamat Hell

So when I bought it, my 110 was fully lined with some sort of bed liner. I saw this as a real selling point as I have a burger business on the side and wanted something that I could haul all the gear in and not worry about the inevitable grease spillages etc. It's been great for this over the past year but now comes the rebuild and the first task is to start stripping it out.

The bed liner hasn't been too hard to remove, pair of pliers and alot of tugging with a bit of heat gun in certain areas to loosen it up, no problems but underneath I found something I wasn't expecting to have to deal with...

Somewhere in the truck's history it's had a full Dynamat install. It's everywhere, all over the tub, every square inch of seatbox (inside too), footwells and right up under the dash. I haven't removed the roof lining yet but expect to find it up there as well.


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Does anyone have any advice on how to remove it? so far I've been peeling a corner back and then just brute-forcing it with a long handled scraper but this leaves alot of adhesive residue behind that will have to come off before I can treat the rust and repaint. I tried the heat gun but this doesn't make it any easier to remove and just makes it stickier (nightmare).

That black adhesive layer is a real Censored to deal with not to mention the razor sharp top layer.

Any tips greatly appreciated!
Post #626739 25th May 2017 4:39am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3602

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
try a solvent such as white spirit, spray or brush it on leave for a few minutes and wipe off, works with most things but make sure there are no sparks or naked flames about DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #626745 25th May 2017 5:27am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2519

Scotland 
I'd just leave it on anything that's aluminium and doesn't need repairs.
Post #626853 25th May 2017 3:56pm
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Rick-T



Member Since: 04 Aug 2016
Location: Auckland
Posts: 12

New Zealand 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Bonatti Grey
@LR90XS2011 thanks for the tip, I went to pick some white spirit up and they sales guy put me onto Desolv-it which worked brilliantly well.

@Retroanaconda That was my initial plan but as I pull it up it's revealing some corrosion around fixings (galvanic) as well as patches of surface rust in places like the seatbox. I haven't peeled it off the footwells or bulkhead yet so I kinda want to get it all off so I can address all the issues and have peace of mind in the end.
Post #627279 27th May 2017 11:13pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Gidday cobber,

Looks like a chore! Makes it feel like it's yours though huh Thumbs Up

Yeah in terms of what is around here Desolve-It or isopropyl alcohol is step one, acetone would be by next step, but use in small doses with good ventilation, no ignition source and after testing a small section.

Also wear a hi-vis vest, steel capped pyjamas and make sure any necessary road closures are organised with the police.

Where did you source it? Trademe?

p.s. If you see a product called 'Goof-Off' know that it's just acetone with some nice smells and in a fancy container priced about 10x as much as plain acetone. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #627292 28th May 2017 5:28am
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Rick-T



Member Since: 04 Aug 2016
Location: Auckland
Posts: 12

New Zealand 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Bonatti Grey
G'day agentmulder, yeah I got it via Trademe, every day I'm finding reasons why it was so cheap Laughing but yeah it's definitely feeling like it's mine after all the struggle. I actually tried Good-off first, useless stuff!

Progress has been slow but steady. I've removed the roof, windscreen and sides as well as the dashboard and moved the truck into the carport under cover.


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Removal of the bed liner and dynamat has revealed a fair bit of rust in the usual places. It appears that in the past the rust has been removed and stabilised in some areas (pillars, bulkhead) but not repaired.


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Also the top of the bulkhead looks pretty screwed and has a fair bit of filler to get off to see how bad the rust is:


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I still need to remove the rest of the dynamat on the bulkhead and footwells and get the sideframe assemblies off to assess how much more rust I'm dealing with so I can order the appropriate repair sections.

Really enjoying the process though, i'm finding the daily challenges quite rewarding.
Post #629030 5th Jun 2017 4:25am
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Rick-T



Member Since: 04 Aug 2016
Location: Auckland
Posts: 12

New Zealand 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Bonatti Grey
After taking some time off the rebuild to work on a few paying jobs I was back into it this week.

I got the looms and harness out as well as some of the other engine ancillaries:


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with some help from my apprentice Karl:


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After removing the bulkhead, I took the wire wheel to the corner and it revealed a large amount of filler and what looks like a dented repair:


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The side frame assemblies were a real Censored to remove as the stud plates that attach them to the outriggers were both rusted away along with the bolt heads so I cut the sill rails as I'll be replacing them anyway.

I also found this little surprise in the C pillar (or what was left of it):


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This was covered over by two layers of dynamat under the bed liner so I think a previous owner (not who I bought it from) has been a bit cheeky here, really smacks of a quick do up to hide the problems before selling...

The bulkhead is rotted in all the usual places, bottom of the A pillar, all around the vents, both footwells


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But I've consulted a mate who's a welder and he's keen to give me a hand to fix it and the sideframes once the YRM pieces arrive.

Hoping to get the tub off, the fuel tank / lines, brake lines and engine off this weekend. The suspension was all rebuilt late last year so I'll leave everything on the axles as they are apart from a few bushes that need replacing.

Still need to check on the status of my replacement chassis that's hopefully being galvanised soon as well as disassemble the doors to see what I'm dealing with there Confused

Still really enjoying it, despite the nasty rusty surprises but I kinda knew that going in. I'm a graphic designer by trade so I'm sat on my a** all day and this is the hardest I've worked in about 20 years!
Post #636351 8th Jul 2017 6:50am
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10420

England 
Great to see that your still enjoying the challenge Very Happy looking good on the progress of the dismantle Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.


Clayton.
Post #636629 9th Jul 2017 8:51pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3748

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Great descriptions & images of your project Rick, and also I like your "never say die" attitude when confronting the unexpected "nasties" that you are uncovering from time to time. Looks to me that you will have a very solid vehicle when you're finished.
Great work, Pickles.
Post #636672 9th Jul 2017 10:37pm
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Rick-T



Member Since: 04 Aug 2016
Location: Auckland
Posts: 12

New Zealand 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Bonatti Grey
Thanks guys, it'd definitely a labour of love! A Landrover mechanic said to me before I started "it's just a big Meccano set, do it yourself!" which is totally true, growing up I was really into models and building things so I think this project is just scratching that itch again.

This week I took the fuel tank out and managed to get the tub off myself:


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I want to get the rest of the bits off the engine (turbo, manifold, alternator, fuel system etc) and I think I'll leave it on the chassis while I clean it and do the timing belt. I'll move it to the engine stand once that's done where I'll prep it with new gaskets, serpentine belt, water pump, glow plugs and filters etc before later putting it on the new chassis. The engine has only done 200,000km so I'm not too concerned with the internals right now. It ran like a dream before starting this.

Although I would love a new vnt turbo (if the budget will stretch, we'll see) Mr. Green

The rest of this week I plan to:

- finish stripping bulkhead and organise shot blasting of that and the side frames.
- strip down doors and inspect the frames

Re. the doors, I'm in two minds:

1. strip the existing doors down, repair rusted sections, galvanise frames, new aluminium skins.

or

2. Just take the plunge and order a full set of galv frame/galv skinned replacement doors (this option will use budget set aside for the final painting so that will be delayed a few months I reckon...)

I'm leaning towards option two to save time getting it back on the road as quickly as possible...

Next week I plan to clean the engine / gearbox / transfer box and do the timing belt then get the engine off the chassis. Remove propshafts and axles so I can cut up the chassis and get it out of the workspace.

Then I can organise the mountain of parts I've stacked up (not to mention the hundred or so snaplock bags with screws and bolts) and clean up the workspace ready for the next bit.
Post #637222 12th Jul 2017 9:57pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 4908

United Kingdom 
looks tidy mind, ones I have seen been stripped have been a lot worse.
they are just a meccano set really, just bolt on and play. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #637238 13th Jul 2017 5:11am
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Rick-T



Member Since: 04 Aug 2016
Location: Auckland
Posts: 12

New Zealand 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Bonatti Grey
The work continues, I've finished the strip down and the old chassis is cut into pieces and stashed down the side of the carport. Phew, I'm so glad to get that out of the workspace as it was starting to get very tight in there, it was like playing a huge 3D puzzle operating the hoist to remove parts and move bits around to make room.

Biggest lesson learned during the whole process: When you start pulling with all your strength on a breaker bar to get a nut off, take a second and make sure your face isn't in the way when the socket comes loose Embarassed I think it was a 24 or 27mm socket (and extension piece) that flew off the rounded nut right into my cheekbone. Felt like being cracked in the face with bat Laughing

Anyway, I spoke to the guy with my new chassis and he reckons it might be ready in 4 weeks or so. Also waiting on customs clearance for the bulkhead / side-frame repair sections, should get them in the next few days hopefully so I can get them welded up and I'll get those bits galvanised along with the chassis.

Here's a few photos of the last couple of weeks:

Engine coming out, little bit tricky in such a tight space but I got it done, first time I've removed an engine and was easier than I expected but still stressful. Next time I'll get someone to help me, getting it on the stand was a real bitch by myself.


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Then gearbox out over the the side:


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Little pile of metal in bottom of the bell-housing, anyone know what this might be from? Can also see a crack in the fork so I've ordered a heavy duty replacement.


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Taking the flywheel off, took me while to figure this out but with the right length spanner it's very easy to lock the crank and remove the bolts:


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Then I removed the front axle:


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Cut the chassis up to the rear before removing that too:


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and finally, a little look at the pile of rust inside the chassis rails (both sides and pretty much the whole way down):


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Next tasks are to go through all of the bolts and clips I've taken off to get a list together of bits and pieces I need to replace so I can get those ordered.

I also need to clean up the bulkhead to get it ready for welding. My welder friend is actually a salesman for an industrial welder company called Fronius, they supply units to JLR apparently so he's going to see if he can get hold of the relevant settings from the factory for what we're doing (all over my head, my welding experience is limited to arc welding a basketball hoop in 5th form metal work) but he's agreed to pick all the bits up and we can do the work in his company workshop so I'm feeling more hopeful about getting these bits fixed up right.

Stay tuned!
Post #641288 1st Aug 2017 10:12pm
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Chris90V8



Member Since: 02 Oct 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 714

England 1987 Defender 90 2.5 TD XS CSW Portofino Red
Great job Thumbs Up

Watching with interest as I'll be going on the same
rebuild journey soon Confused 🚜. ...... . .... . .. 🚗🚐🚛🚚🚚🚗🚙🚐
Post #641308 2nd Aug 2017 4:05am
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