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Hazz



Member Since: 28 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 5

Puma clutch slave cylinder shot?
Hi, I'm just hoping someone on here can shed some daylight on a clutch problem I'm having with a 2007 defender puma, sometimes it's hard to change gear, like the clutch isn't engaging properly although the clutch pedal feels normal and depresses as it should. There's been times where I've come to traffic light selected 1st gear clutch pedal depressed and it would start inching forward. So far I've changed the master cylinder hasn't resolved problem, where would be the next place to look? Slave cylinder? Btw no signs of clutch fluid loss. Thanks for any help rich
Post #634069 28th Jun 2017 10:48am
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proloForêt



Member Since: 16 Mar 2017
Location: Montereau
Posts: 248

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Perhaps it is not the same but was the weather hot in this moments?
Last week when it was 39c sunshine here I had a similar description. When the temperature weather went down the difficult to engage at the traffic light is gone.
Post #634071 28th Jun 2017 10:52am
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midlife



Member Since: 15 Apr 2015
Location: Cork
Posts: 122

Ireland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Rimini Red
I changed my clutch this year for a similar issue. Clutch spring was broken and jamming occasionally between clutch face and flywheel. Slave is concentric cylinder anyway so had to be stripped to change complete kit with Clutchfix
Post #634095 28th Jun 2017 12:13pm
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Hazz



Member Since: 28 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 5

At first I thot it was only doing it when hot, but it makes no difference it'll play up wether hot or cold. Midlife I think youve solved it, The problem sounds exactly like your describing. Gearbox out jobbie it is then, I let you know what I find. Cheers rich
Post #634131 28th Jun 2017 2:17pm
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Hazz



Member Since: 28 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 5

so I've made a start on the job yesterday and so far have removed centre panel under cubby box, gear levers, prop shafts, exhaust, crossmember, handbrake drum, etc. Now do I need to take the seat box and floor panels out? Or is it possible to leave them in place? Plan is to split tbox from gearbox to make the heavy lump a little more manageable to handle. Thanks rich
Post #635970 6th Jul 2017 3:42pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1726

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I did mine with floors and seatbox in situ.

A lot of members on here advocate a proper gearbox jack or adapter for your trolley jack, seems very sensible.

Also a really long (36") extension bar to get to the top bell housing bolts

Good luck
Post #635971 6th Jul 2017 3:49pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
No need to remove floor panels or seatbox.

A transmission jack or equivalent is sensible, the gearbox is quite heavy enough to inflict life-changing injuries if you were to drop it on part of your anatomy.
Post #635975 6th Jul 2017 4:02pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
You could use an engine crane and and strops from above.

I considered doing my own, in the end I just farmed it out to a local commercial vehicle garage who my local dealer recommended.
Post #635982 6th Jul 2017 4:29pm
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Paulv8



Member Since: 09 Jun 2013
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 616

1989 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Alpine White
Literally I have just completed my clutch change. I used a 35 quid eBay transmission jack adapter which worked well. I did remove the panel under the centre console. I reached the bell housing bolts with my arm and a spanner to be honest. V8 90...WIP
Post #636000 6th Jul 2017 6:13pm
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Hazz



Member Since: 28 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 5

Thanks for all the replies everyone. That's one thing I was not looking forward to taking seat box and floor out so that's brill if I can leave them in place will save a lot of time. I don't have a engine crane unfortunately, just trolley jack but a getting a gearbox adapter sounds a very good idea. So far it's all gone smoothly, haven't had chance to do any more still got to disconnect wires and pipes from gearbox before removing mounting bolts, think the fun will start when splitting bell housing. Thanks again rich
Post #636484 9th Jul 2017 7:48am
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Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230

Australia 
I had my slave cylinder develop a leak while on a 3 week trip I was leading.
Once in a while the pedal would be really hard, hadn't thought about that till I read this thread.
Occasionally the pedal would go to the floor and not engage, maybe once a day.
It then slowly lost fluid with no signs of leaks at the master, pipes or hose.
Got to the point it would creep when in gear with the pedal on the floor so sat in neutral till just before I needed to move.
At this point I only used the clutch to get moving then changed gears without it.
4-5 applications of the pedal would empty the reservoir of fluid so regular top ups each time we stoped to save bleeding it.

I farmed the job out as I don't have a decent concrete pad to use a jack on.
I got a heavy duty clutch fitted and the updated slave cylinder and associated pipe work.
They dropped it out the bottom after removing the transfer box.
I've fitted an ex-box(similar to a cubby locker) and they didn't need to remove it. Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #636712 10th Jul 2017 9:12am
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Hazz



Member Since: 28 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 5

So I ended up taking the floor and seat box out after and I hired a engine crane, a lot more work but made it so easy to access the gearbox and get at the bell housing bolts. Found the culprit it was a broken clutch spring trapped between the pressure plate as midlife suggested. The clutch disc it self has plenty of life left in it. I also noticed there's a little play in the gearbox shaft, is this normal? Anything else I should check/ replace while at it?

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Post #637095 12th Jul 2017 8:56am
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