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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
as an aside, Force9 axles or Toyota axles may be a cheaper option for guaranteed durability Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #617742 18th Apr 2017 5:31pm
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Bristol 90XS



Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

England 
Thanks for all the replies and options.

I'm after keeping it as standard as possible but upgrading the weak links in the system. Theres no point in upgrading the drive shafts as you want them to be the weakest pint so you can drive if one breaks. You don't want it going past them and breaking the gearbox!

If the front diff is 2-pin then i'll upgrade that and then look at the LSD front and rear but if its 4-Pin ill leave it as is. No point in replacing it just for LSD. Unless I can't pull away with all the power not being able to go down then I'll need the LSD Very Happy

@Caterham - Yes its having a LS3 V8 fitted over next few weeks, so a little more power and torque than standard!!

James
Post #617901 19th Apr 2017 12:19pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
i guess you've already upgraded (or plan to) the drive shafts and props ?
Post #617911 19th Apr 2017 12:48pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6260

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Bristol 90XS wrote:
Thanks for all the replies and options.

@Caterham - Yes its having a LS3 V8 fitted over next few weeks, so a little more power and torque than standard!!

James


sorry James but that's simply not true.

since when has 430hp been 'a little' more power Rolling with laughter

looking forward to the photos etc. Thumbs Up


..... next you'll be telling us the only reason for doing this is because of the issues with diesel exhaust fumes etc Laughing
Post #617917 19th Apr 2017 1:43pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Your upgrading the diffs to lsd rear and four pin front but not the shafts or CVs in order to keep a weak point is how iread that

Really.

I would upgrade them too, then at least you can drive it which I assume is why you are putting the engine in anyway?

We run a lm 5.3 around 400bhp with Nissan 9" diffs and longfield shafts. Shafts still break. Changing to spydertrax shafts and knuckles for this season still running 9" diff. Front with locker rear on spool. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #617937 19th Apr 2017 4:11pm
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Bristol 90XS



Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

England 
@Caterham. - yes of course I am! Diesel is not the fuel of satan so I'm switching to petrol to be more eco friendly 😄

@JST - getting so much conflicting info here. Halfsahfts and flanges I'm planning on changing but not driveshafts. From speaking with other people who have upgraded, driveshafts haven't failed but half shafts and flanges have. 2 pin diffs have also failed as far as I can see but without definitive data how the hell do you know! If a drive shaft failed then I can at least engage diff lock and still get drive as a get me home.

So I still need to know the front diff - I'll call the dealer and ask them the build.

James
Post #618145 20th Apr 2017 2:38pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I'm of the opinion to just make everything as strong as possible so none of it breaks.

I just don't see the logic in making something weaker so it breaks!

The gearbox should be plenty strong enough, as it's basically the same one as used in the Mustang.

The weakest point is likely to be the clutch, they fall apart even with 120bhp.
Post #618205 20th Apr 2017 7:02pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
there is aways a weak link somewhere. on my trayback its the LT230 which as we all know are quite strong. and thats not broken yet.

OK that makes sense so you are doing shafts and CVs just keeping the original props. i follow now. my understanding of driveshafts would be halfshafts. where as i now understand you mean driveshafts = Props.

Build sheet for mine says 4 pin front diff. it still had a 2pin in it. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #618211 20th Apr 2017 7:13pm
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Bristol 90XS



Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

England 
LOL thats useful saying 4 pin and then finding its 2 pin!!

Yep thats where my head is just now, will run the car as is but carefully as I run the new engine in and then at 1000 miles when I have a service ill have the half shafts (props?) and flanges replaced with uprated ones.

Ill ask my mechanic to have a look at the front diff and will strengthen if is 2 Pin.. Then i can really open up the V8 Very Happy
Post #618226 20th Apr 2017 7:43pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
jst wrote:


Build sheet for mine says 4 pin front diff. it still had a 2pin in it.


I'm not sure the build sheets are always that accurate, mine says it has a "rear diff 2 pin", but as i understand it all 110's have a 4 pin rear as standard.
Post #618288 21st Apr 2017 12:46am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Perhaps this is due to the ambiguity of the technically meaningless term "2 pin" .

A diff can have either 2 or 4 differential side gears. If it has 2 gears, they are carried on a single cross pin. If it has four gears they are carried on 2 pins. So a four gear diff actually has 2 pins. No landrover diff on earth actually has four pins.

"Two gear" and "four gear" would be the correct terminology.

(Don't get me started on the term "hawse fairlead" either, because again there's no such thing! I blame the internet formthe uncontrolled spread of meaningless pseudotechnical babble).
Post #618303 21st Apr 2017 7:21am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
^^^^ your right, its just the term that is commonly used.

cheese diff would be better for both Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #618322 21st Apr 2017 8:50am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Quote:
(Don't get me started on the term "hawse fairlead" either, because again there's no such thing! I blame the internet formthe uncontrolled spread of meaningless pseudotechnical babble).


Sadly forums are a double edged sword - lots of internet myths, that just perpetuate.
Post #618374 21st Apr 2017 11:35am
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diduan



Member Since: 13 Oct 2016
Location: Central Balkan
Posts: 260

Bulgaria 
"cheese diff" Rolling with laughter
In my opinion you may put more torque (stress) on your drivetrain with 120hp and aggressive tires than with a v8 and road tires. I wouldn't change anything untill it fails. Defender 110 SW MY2011 2.4tdci decat, no EGR
Jeep Wrangler YJ 1990 4.0. Front 78' Dana 60, Rear CUCV 14 bolt
Post #618398 21st Apr 2017 1:28pm
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Ramsay



Member Since: 30 Sep 2015
Location: Moffat, Dumfries & Galloway
Posts: 623

Scotland 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Auto Keswick Green
I am having a thought that "2 pin" may be a corruption of "2 pinion" and that is how it has started up. 1995 Defender 110 CSW
1971 SIIA Lightweight
Post #618408 21st Apr 2017 2:11pm
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