 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 07 Plate Cat "C" |
 
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758   
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A lot of people would run a mile from a Cat C, personally wouldn't bother me. You can get some absolute horrors that are clean on the paperwork, and a very minor amount of damage that has been repaired to a high standard, but a Cat C.
Same rule as ever with defenders, buy on condition. They're pretty easy to repair, and pretty easy to inspect. You will probably have some challenges on resale, but that may not bother you. And besides, you got it cheap so can afford to sell it cheap. |
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8th Mar 2017 1:04am |
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| xcentric Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 247 |
been looking into this recently myself (albeit for another car) - it all comes down to the quality of the repair. I'd get it checked properly, ideally on a jig, to check chassis is square, though if the tyres are wearing evenly that's a good sign. (Autoalign do this). You can use the Cat C to knock them down some more, often, as there are many fewer buyers for a Cat C - and at your budget, as you note, there are lots about, albeit rattier). If it checks out, then no reason not to go for it, but remember it'll always be cat c so the same applies in reverse when/if you come to sell.....
(You can have a car inspected to remove the Cat C marker, but it then shows up as 'inspected' - i.e. isn't cat c now but once was - again, an auto align inspected car will change to this.) |
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8th Mar 2017 9:48am |
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| scotty38 Member Since: 21 May 2011 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 571  
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I'm not advising you one way or the other but I can almost guarantee that when/if you come to sell then all of a sudden the Cat C will be a big deal. Everyone will make light of it now but once the boot's on the other foot it will be a massive problem. If you can handle that or are not planning on selling then all is good.
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8th Mar 2017 5:17pm |
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| jubjub Member Since: 14 Jan 2017 Location: surrey Posts: 20 |
Thanks Scotty. I can see 100% where you are coming from...
I would like to thinks a keeper... 
To be fair, running it through webuyanycar, even on "c", their price is £8540... simple man maths says it costing me only £1500 more....as long as the scale stays fairly parallel it should only cost me £1500 worse way. Awkward when your budget doesn't stretch to a no issues Landy, Think I've only found one that would have fitted the bill. |
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8th Mar 2017 7:47pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728  
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'Awkward when your budget doesn't stretch to a no issues Landy'
If you spent £40k on a brand new one, then another £40k for a professional outfit to take every nut and bolt apart and rebuild it properly, you may & then only may have a 'no issues Landy' No matter what you buy and from where I'm sure you will be searching and posting on here  |
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8th Mar 2017 9:11pm |
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| jubjub Member Since: 14 Jan 2017 Location: surrey Posts: 20 |
I can see how funny that is reading it back as a quote |
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8th Mar 2017 9:47pm |
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| jubjub Member Since: 14 Jan 2017 Location: surrey Posts: 20 |
 Click image to enlarge Still tempted.... |
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9th Mar 2017 12:20am |
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| jubjub Member Since: 14 Jan 2017 Location: surrey Posts: 20 |
Apparently it was wing damage to drivers side.... 4 years ago when mileage was low 20k. It would have been worth saving i guess being that low....?
Other than a jet wash and polish, whats not to like? Click image to enlarge |
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9th Mar 2017 12:24am |
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| jubjub Member Since: 14 Jan 2017 Location: surrey Posts: 20 |
Apparently it was wing damage to drivers side.... 4 years ago when mileage was low 20k. It would have been worth saving i guess being that low....?
Other than a jet wash and polish, whats not to like? Click image to enlarge |
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9th Mar 2017 1:46am |
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| Rallymental Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: The Garden of England Posts: 468 
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Sounds like you're smitten!
As others have said, it's a defender, they aren't the most difficult thing to repair with a hammer and a big spanner, go and have a look, get underneath, right underneath with a torch and have a right good look about, especially at the front if the owner says that's where the damage was; look for anything on the chassis or elsewhere that just doesn't look right like crinkles etc. Maybe beware if it's been newly waxoyl'd or painted underneath as it could be hiding something. You say it's not near home? So you're going to have to arrange a visit. Ring a couple of local independent garages and see if any of their mechanics will come with you (for a small fee of course!) and take a poke around. Basically, trust your gut and don't be afraid to walk away, there will be another one somewhere else. Remember it's your money, you earned it! Good luck |
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9th Mar 2017 2:41am |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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Without wanting to repeat things too much, Land Rovers (still call them that instead of Defenders) are nuts & bolts so unlike modern cars, where a small bump can lead to the integrity of the shell being compromised due to crumple zones etc., a damaged wing can be removed & replaced very easily. Most likely the one you are looking at was cat c because the repairer was an insurance approved/manufacturer approved body shop charging horrendous labour rates & who spec'd new genuine parts for repair because of age & still in warranty etc. No reason why another repairer couldn't have sourced perfectly good second hand parts - perhaps from another cat c that had damage on the opposite side... and do a cost effective & proper repair. My mum had a car written off once & one of the repairers staff bought it off her & repaired it for himself as he knew the damage was not serious & had access to secondhand parts and cheap labour.
Main thing to look at for me would be chassis leg from the radius arm mount forward, bulkhead & outrigger and, I know this sounds silly, but the panel gaps around the door... Easiest way to see if the bulkhead is twisted is look at the trailing edge of the door - if the gap between it & the rear panel is big at the top and tapers significantly to the bottom then the bulkhead has been whacked. Ditto look at the top edge of the door, if it's right to the roof at the back and has a big gap at the front then the bulkhead is not "square" - both examples assume the gap between front of the door & bulkhead is roughly equal all the way down. Someone has already mentioned tyre wear - check the MoT history as it may show on an advisory. Otherwise, assess the vehicle for what you see and what you are prepared to pay for it, taking into consideration that you are getting it cheap because it's cat c. I wouldn't worry too much about lost residual prices unless you plan in selling it in a couple of years as the older it gets the less this will be reflected in the value. View it with your head not your heart & don't be afraid to ask questions or make an offer - you can always walk away if you think it's a wrong 'un or can't get it for what you think it's worth. Good luck. |
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9th Mar 2017 9:17am |
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