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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Post #596110 25th Jan 2017 10:47am
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Thanks Chris...shame it won't stay so beautiful, BUT, with your magic dust (Dinitrol) it should hold off the red menace for a good few years. Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #596143 25th Jan 2017 1:20pm
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sjwdrew



Member Since: 31 Aug 2016
Location: London
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks for all your hard work Chris, the underneath looks fantastic. Bow down

Hope the back mends quickly Thumbs Up

Simon
Post #596440 26th Jan 2017 3:57pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Pleasure Simon Thumbs Up

This beauty has just gone out!



When it came in, pretty good for a 1991 chassis.



Taking back old coating and rust.



Rust acid converted with Dinitrol Converust, then a layer of ML and three layers of Dinitrol 4941, gives a nice matt black finish to a show vehicle. ML is now the cavity wax which replaces 3125, can see it dripping out of the drain hole!



And this one just in from France, NICE colour Very Happy I did his other one a couple of years ago which he keeps in the UK.



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Post #599048 4th Feb 2017 1:40pm
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Selseymech



Member Since: 29 Nov 2016
Location: Selsey
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 90 2.5 n/a Diesel ST Nato Green
Nice pictures Chris and thanks again for the excellent work-should see me OK for a number of years!!
Post #599202 5th Feb 2017 11:52am
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7873

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Thumbs Up Thumbs Up James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #599213 5th Feb 2017 12:22pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3612

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
 DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #602488 17th Feb 2017 7:16am
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3463

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Taking back old coating and rust.



Rust acid converted with Dinitrol Converust, then a layer of ML and three layers of Dinitrol 4941, gives a nice matt black finish to a show vehicle. ML is now the cavity wax which replaces 3125, can see it dripping out of the drain hole!



Is the taking back and treating with coverust a new procedure?

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #602555 17th Feb 2017 11:59am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Hi Simon, no the regime is the same but more extensive on a 25 year old chassis. The only thing I would add as I have said many times in the past is that for any acid converting products including the POR15 system such as Metal Ready to work 100% you really do have to get the majority of the rust off. They won,t work so effectively against layers of rust, deeply pitted rust, folded seams and rust ingrained within welded seams. Unfortunately on a Land Rover chassis with the weld seams running along the chassis, deeply pitted areas and all those areas which you cannot get any hand tools in let alone grinders you simply won't be able to stop the rust BUT you can slow it down and keep an eye on it for any further treatments every four years which is recommended by Dinitrol. The products however are very effective on simple, smooth accessible areas and it can be stopped for good Thumbs Up Another point to be wary of is that the acid treatment can lift edges of the paint after you have completed the work with aerosols. This doesn,t happen when you use a compressor as it goes on much thicker!

I would never put any really thick or permanent hard treatments on a Land Rover chassis because as from new the metal is not primed properly, moisture passes through the porous outer black paint and the chassis rusts from behind that paint, hence rusting rear crossmembers all the time as they are more exposed. Throw in farm yard muck which eats concrete let alone metal and salt from roads which is near impossible to get off (flushing alone will not get salt off completey or hand washing and even polishing for that matter, I have evidence of this from my boat accessories) so the best way to lengthen the life of your chassis is to use a product that does not seal permanently.



Rust rubbed back



Dinitrol Converust



Grey paint as per the original colour and will put three layers of Dintrol Corroheat clear on top which will give it a more glossy appearance but not too glossy! This way you can keep an eye on things. Bilt Hamber also now do a clear product but it remains tacky and collects all the grime as do there other underseal products so I offer it as an option and it has it,s uses but mostly still use the Dinitrol system.



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Last edited by Zagato on 18th Feb 2017 1:21pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #602752 18th Feb 2017 9:16am
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Rudski



Member Since: 13 Jul 2014
Location: Lake District
Posts: 130

Hi Zegato

Have been meaning to do this on my own vehicle since new, still haven't done it Rolling Eyes

Have sent you a PM Thumbs Up

Regards
Mark
Post #602765 18th Feb 2017 10:31am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Replied, many thanks Thumbs Up
Post #602767 18th Feb 2017 10:49am
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I've been directed here after asking about other firms!

I'll pm you regarding my defender 90, which I would like you to quote on please!

Thanks
Mark
Post #603523 21st Feb 2017 10:03am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
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PM sent Mark Thumbs Up

This was very nice, just gone out...



But as Ben unfortunately found out in his video above jet washing doesn,t get all the muck off, you have to get in FIRST with various weapons of choice to get the muck out then THEN jet wash etc. The pic below is of the above vehicle after the client jet washed it and this is what I dug out Shocked



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Post #603837 22nd Feb 2017 9:28am
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womble



Member Since: 27 Jan 2012
Location: south east
Posts: 272

England 
hi zagato great guide and as you say copper grease is great stuff i have been using it for years and fixings just undo so much easier when it has been applied. Very Happy Very Happy
Post #606347 3rd Mar 2017 11:23am
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Zagato wrote:
PM sent Mark Thumbs Up

This was very nice, just gone out...



But as Ben unfortunately found out in his video above jet washing doesn,t get all the muck off, you have to get in FIRST with various weapons of choice to get the muck out then THEN jet wash etc. The pic below is of the above vehicle after the client jet washed it and this is what I dug out Shocked



Thanks, really looking forward to getting mine done. Strangely almost the same as that one pictured!

Can't believe how much came out AFTER jet washing! I've been doing mine bit by bit in preparation, but I'm pretty certain you will have similar pictures of mine because if I am honest, I have no idea where the pockets are that hold that sort of quantity of dirt!
Very interesting! :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #607381 6th Mar 2017 11:30pm
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