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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024
United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Stainless/Ali Corrosion
How much more improved is the situation with stainless fixing into aluminium? Is there any benefit to removing a stainless bolt into ali item to put buzzweld thread stuff on?

Reason for asking is i was fitting some bolts using the last of my buzzweld thread lock and noticed it had water in it, i dont think much got on the first 3 bolts as it seems to separate well, although compared to my new buzzweld threadlock the old stuff wasnt as good.

Anyway i used normal loctite threadlock on the remaining bolts instead and im toying with whether there is any benefit to remove the bolts just to fit a different type of liquid, albeit that buzzweld state a property is to stop bi-metalic corrosion?

To be honest i cant be bothered to strip everything to get the bolts but ill be less interested to fix corrosion in 5 years! hence asking the question Rolling Eyes Mike
Post #602760 18th Feb 2017 10:14am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19557
United Kingdom 
Naka do a special thread paste to help prevent that which I have akways used.
Is that of any use? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #602796 18th Feb 2017 2:21pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
The paste I got with my Naka bolt kit wasn't anything special. Just a load of aluminium grease sachets as supplied with some brake pad kits.

From my research The correct grease to use with ally/stainless is nickel grease. I bought a tub of the stuff on eBay for not very much and it'll last decades with amateur use.

But any grease that keeps the water out will stop them seizing together, it needs water to make the two metals react.
Post #602833 18th Feb 2017 4:42pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024
United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
I bit the bullet as it was warm and put the buzweld stuff on...if it works its good stuff...im sure time will tell Mike
Post #602859 18th Feb 2017 7:53pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2025
United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I'm sure Buzzweld stuff will help. Fingers crossed Thumbs Up

Clearly there are many products that offer some resistance to the well known galling, seizing and electrolytic issues, and there are many posts that provide experience-based recommendations. From what I've read, many only deal with either the galling or the electrolytic issues separately.

If you want a single solution that addresses all the known issues with stainless steel fittings and fixings in the Land Rover context, then Tef Gel is a cracking product BUT relatively expensive. Thumbs Up

That said, trial and error seems to be the way forward!

Best of luck. Thumbs Up
Post #602874 18th Feb 2017 9:07pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024
United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Thanks

The buzzweld stuff is supposed to specifically be good for this application

Although i read some articles that stainless will in itself be better than mild steel...then something else saying a loctite coating will probably have some properties too...trial and error is the order of the day - shame it takes years to be sure of a problem Mike
Post #602880 18th Feb 2017 9:14pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2025
United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Although this is a very general and sweeping statement on my part given the wider context, I don't believe that stainless steel will be better than mild steel in every situation. Given the right (wrong) environmental conditions, stainless steel is certainly going to be potentially (pardon the pun) more problematic when proximate to aluminium. It also suffers from galling (cold welding) when you use stainless with stainless (e.g. nut/bolt). Obviously it has better corrosion resistance in isolation when compared to mild steel, but you do have to be careful when using it with aluminium (and in a context when tensile strength is important).

I did qualify this with the point that this is a general statement, and it is of course only one (subjective) opinion, but the best advice is to approach the use of stainless steel on a Landy with caution. Whistle

Personally I like using stainless steel and do so whenever I am able to do so appropriately. There are many, many grades of stainless steel to suit specific applications (e.g. high tensile, marine grade etc.) and as indicated previously there are also many, many pastes, compounds, greases and lubricants that will address the galling and electrolytic action.

The most important point to make I suppose is that we have so many experienced forum members Bow down , many of whom are marine engineers, and they can point us all in the right direction Thumbs Up

Having said all of that Wink I do hope your Buzzweld works! Thumbs Up
Post #602968 19th Feb 2017 9:44am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816
Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I have seen the very early start of stainless into alu as well as stainless into mild steel problems. Quickly took corrective action as below. Strong believer in the qualities of Weicon, but that has no threadlock capacities of course.
Eric
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic38216....mild+steel You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #602974 19th Feb 2017 9:56am
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need4speed



Member Since: 23 Nov 2012
Location: Kilmarnock
Posts: 746
I just use a bit of heatshrink where the thread passes through the Ali

Far more permanent barrier than any paste
Post #603745 21st Feb 2017 10:17pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024
United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
thats a good idea...a bit like ptfe Mike
Post #603801 22nd Feb 2017 1:06am
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2626
2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Screbble wrote:
I'm sure Buzzweld stuff will help. Fingers crossed Thumbs Up

Clearly there are many products that offer some resistance to the well known galling, seizing and electrolytic issues, and there are many posts that provide experience-based recommendations. From what I've read, many only deal with either the galling or the electrolytic issues separately.

If you want a single solution that addresses all the known issues with stainless steel fittings and fixings in the Land Rover context, then Tef Gel is a cracking product BUT relatively expensive. Thumbs Up

That said, trial and error seems to be the way forward!

Best of luck. Thumbs Up


any links on this tef gel and where to purchase?
Post #603805 22nd Feb 2017 1:28am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
need4speed wrote:
I just use a bit of heatshrink where the thread passes through the Ali

Far more permanent barrier than any paste


Nylon washers probably help in some applications too.
Post #603819 22nd Feb 2017 6:14am
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 705
United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
I used to use copper-slip on all fixings, especially with steel/alloy interfaces however after a bit of reading it seems that ceramic grease is preferable because it removes another metal from the equation.

Duralac is good however it tends to dry hard and the yellow is difficult to wipe off once dry.

Butyl pond liner cut to shape where panels are bolted to the chassis is another option Very Happy
Post #603898 22nd Feb 2017 1:35pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024
United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Seriously have a look at buzzweld stuff - its supposed to stop or hinder the corrosion

http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/anti-seize-threa...-97-p.html Mike
Post #603960 22nd Feb 2017 7:19pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I dont get it? You asked us if it was worth using buzweld, now you're telling us to? Neutral
Post #604004 22nd Feb 2017 9:30pm
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