 | Home > Td5 > Does any one change their own filters and oil? |
 
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| xcentric Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 247  |
looks like the drain plug extends a bit beyond the sump - anyone had any issues with it being knocked off-road?
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29th Jan 2017 6:57pm |
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| Martin 01 Member Since: 13 Feb 2012 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 499 |
Always do my own oils & filters.
I'm no mechanic but do enjoy the satisfaction of knowing it's been done by myself. No special tools required unless the filter is to tight. I buy the full service kit from my local suppliers and the filters are Mann. Oil is 5-30, the more you buy the cheaper it is. I usually buy it in 20l so good for couple of changes. |
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29th Jan 2017 9:46pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652  
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my best mate has his own garage so I get everything at cost. It usually costs me about 25 quid for the oil and both filters, so I do them every 5k miles or 6 months.
The diffs, gearbox etc get done every 2nd change unless I've had it wading or something 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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30th Jan 2017 9:40pm |
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| BCdefender Member Since: 26 Oct 2015 Location: Nanaimo Posts: 211  
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Just downloaded the RAVE 02 disc. Much better way to Navigate the PDF's! Thanks for the great tips. 1999 Defender 110 2003 P38 2007 RR SC "And that's why it needs to be celebrated, because when the Defender goes we'll have lost this pointer to where we came from, and we're really going to miss it." My build thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic47750.html |
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30th Jan 2017 10:16pm |
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| Nick666 Member Since: 23 Mar 2016 Location: Somerset / Dorset borders! Posts: 81 
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Femco also make a compact version which sticks out less. I had the standard on a previous truck and worked really well, not heard of them getting knocked off but guess it's always a risk. One thing I was recommended and have found really handy is the wide-mouth oil drain pans with a built in spout for pouring into a waste container. Like this (you can get them cheaper): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000RO13SM/ Just get the biggest one you can, then you don't have to worry about it overflowing. |
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31st Jan 2017 12:39am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
^
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31st Jan 2017 10:33am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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I use a big bucket with a piece of wood.
The wood is important as after getting oil in the bucket I can lift it off the wood and then pull it sideways from under the 90. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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31st Jan 2017 11:06am |
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| L90DNY Member Since: 09 Feb 2016 Location: Somerset Posts: 117 
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Someone has made a youtube video that runs you through most things -
Might help you to get an idea. They do give some incorrect info at the end about the bleeding the fuel system, you need to turn the key half way and push the accelerator 5 times instead. I recently did mine with no issues, all fairly straight forward. Good luck with the stubborn bolts! |
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2nd Feb 2017 11:19am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2063 
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I would agree, doing it yourself is better. It's not very difficult to do. The only thing that can be a pain are the oil filters. The main filter can be tight to remove as there isnt alot of space! As for the centrifugal filter the 'nuts' in the spinner housing can thread and become useless, so do not over tighten!
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2nd Feb 2017 4:21pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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They should at least have checked the other oils too. Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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2nd Feb 2017 11:26pm |
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| BCdefender Member Since: 26 Oct 2015 Location: Nanaimo Posts: 211
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So essentially: Torx T55 for the transfer box filler plug vs main gear box 1/2" drive ratchet for most plugs large hex spanner (I think 32mm) or a 3/8 drive ratchet for the gearbox That's about it for the tools I would need to change most of the fluids myself? Thanks! Going to read the service manual a few times before I tackle this and watch that video again... 1999 Defender 110 2003 P38 2007 RR SC "And that's why it needs to be celebrated, because when the Defender goes we'll have lost this pointer to where we came from, and we're really going to miss it." My build thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic47750.html |
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14th Feb 2017 2:52am |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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Yes, assuming that:
- you have a 1/2 and 1/4 ratchet set. The centrifugal filter requires an 8mm socket on an extension - the main oil filter is cooperative and lets itself unscrew by hand In a worst case scenario when a gearbox plug is very stuck and you decide to remove the propshaft to create space for a big wrench, then a propshaft removal tool comes in handy. On the note of Loctite, someone advised yesterday to use Loctite 572 if you decide to use a sealant. And while you're at it: take the habit to grease the uj's and the propshafts too. I use a small one-hand grease pump (example)which makes life a lot easier in the cramped space under the car. On the risk of diverging off topic or writing things that you'll likely know, let me remind you that if you'd jack up wheel, that you must use difflock and use wheel chocks. Good luck, Joris |
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14th Feb 2017 8:04am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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Genuine filters aren't normally too bad for price when you compare them to quality branded ones, if your dealer gives you a discount - they can all give you trade discount if they like.
Fluids are almost always extortionately expensive from the dealer though. Buy branded oil, it doesn't have to be Castrol or Mobil. Comma or Millers is fine, just dont get Tesco's own or Britpart grey bottle, it might be fine, but then again it might not be. But saying that, Cheap oil changed more frequently than expensive stuff left in too long is always going to be better. As an example, the ATF for my old Range Rover was £30 a litre retail from Land Rover (it cost the dealer £20 a litre and they discounted it to 22), but i could get the same stuff in the same Mobil bottles from a local factor for £10 a litre - I needed 8 litres so £80 vs £240.... On the TD5, i think you're supposed to change the Centrifuge filter every oil change, but then main filter only every 60k or something, but given the small cost of a filter you may as well change both every time. It's worth getting a decent drain pan, they're much less prone to spilage and you can pour the oil out much more easily. You can get them where you can seal the old oil in then transport it to your local tip for recycling, it's much easier than trying to pour it back into an old bottle. I have a few cars though, so i've got a jerry can i transport it to the tip in. |
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15th Feb 2017 4:00pm |
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| huffhuff Member Since: 05 May 2016 Location: Home Counties Posts: 379 
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Well timed thread.
I've booked this afternoon off and am going to change my gear box, transfer box and diff oils. Not sure when they were done last. I didn't the engine oil not that long ago. Will also grease all the nipples I can find (not forgetting my swing away carrier)  TD5 Defender 90
Discovery 3 HSE |
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16th Feb 2017 10:12am |
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