 | Home > Technical > replacing wheel bearings. |
 
|
|
|
| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 348   
|
The best advice I can give is to get a maintenance manual.
Read it and see what they say must be replaced and what might be a problem. Then order the parts. That would be the safest way. |
||
12th Jan 2017 7:39pm |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
|
If old vehicle with 2 nut system, ideally need new tab over washer per wheel. If new vehicle ideally need new stake nut per wheel.
You'll see why when disassembling. If you're mechanical enough I suggest converting to more 'refined' 2nut system. May as well look at replacing rotors at the same time if they need it. Similarly seals, but you don't have to if you're careful. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 7:59pm |
|
| Maris Widgeon Member Since: 11 Dec 2013 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 216  
|
Easiest way is to buy a wheel bearing kit from one of the many suppliers , which will include the seals,gaskets, etc, that is needed to do the job . Not usually much more expensive than just the bearings on there own.
Nick |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 8:02pm |
|
| sharkey964 Member Since: 05 Oct 2014 Location: On a muddy track Posts: 570 
|
When I replace my wheel bearings,I always replace the inner seals,1 per wheel.As has already been said,the tab lock washer & the paper drive flange gasket,though you can use sealant.
Marc |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 8:45pm |
|
| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2547 
|
The problem with the kits is that they often have
 bits in them, you'd be better to take a match to the thing than fit those.
I use Timken bearings, Corteco hub seals, and Bearmach tab washers/drive member gaskets. |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 8:50pm |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
|
^agree
And yeah I totally forgot the flange gaskets! Often you get more than 4, no harm in that... Yes read the WSM (workshop manual), links found all over the net. Personally I read it over and over until I've got it in my head and only check it for torques from then on. Item 7 here is the seal that you should ideally get:  Assembly 9 shows the 2 nut system - because of this the spacer washer between the bearings (6) isn't present, if you do have the spacer/stake nut system then make sure you don't mix and match parts between assemblies. Item 12 are shims (plural) that allow for wear in the plain thrust bearing (15), you could if you like check them out too, but most forget about it with no issue... It's all in the WSM Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 9:16pm |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7683 
|
2 x nuts, 1 x lock tab, 1 x rear seal (item 7 ^^) 2 x bearings , some RTV
if you have stake nut you can convert to above with those parts and use the stake nut washer to hold outer bearing in place. if you already have the 2 nut system then del the two nuts above. Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 10:17pm |
|
| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758  
|
Personally I'd stick with the Stake nut. Quicker & easier, and a lot of people don't set them up quite as well as they think they do!
I know there's the possibility of different spacers, but the consensus seems to be that with timken bearings the original spacer works fine in 99% of cases. |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 10:56pm |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
|
Mine came with different spacers from factory.
Considering the range and step size of the spacers it could be considered very tight tolerance stuff (depending on your industry). I guess the question is: are we dealing with LR hub tolerance, Timken bearing tolerance, or both, combined with installation process... Personally, I'd rather fart around with depth gauges and torque wrenches than just trust (or have to order a full range of spacer options). But if people's trucks are trucking then yeah, all good - i.e. the spacers account for LR hub manufacturing (  ), and Timken make a consistent enough product... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
12th Jan 2017 11:14pm |
|
| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758
|
That seems to be the case! Done both my fronts and reused the original spacers. I don't claim to know all that much about wheel bearings (press in assemblies on all my other cars!!), but my dad, who's a time served "old school" mechanic, did it with me and felt that they were running perfectly. When torqued up, the stake nut rested in exactly the same place as the old as well.
|
||
|
12th Jan 2017 11:25pm |
|
| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
|
Thanks guys, I've done tappered bearings before and i've been watching youtube videos so i'm sure I will be ok.
I think I will get full sets as their doesn't seem much point in doing them again in a few months because the seals are ruined. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
||
|
13th Jan 2017 12:14am |
|
| Conan Member Since: 05 Sep 2016 Location: the danger zone Posts: 53  
|
I had to replace the seals on my swivel balls a few months ago. While doing it, I realized I had to replace bearings in one wheel.
these two videos helped a lot: &index=8&t=6s&list=PLsbuJYez6dIHiX8gJAuhAvTxSG002HBWA &list=PLsbuJYez6dIHiX8gJAuhAvTxSG002HBWA&index=9 |
||
|
13th Jan 2017 11:02am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
