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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 326

United Kingdom 
clutch bleeding and feel.
Hi all,

If the clutch is properly bled should you feel pressure on the pedal immediately? I am trying to adjust my TD5 clutch after changing the master cylinder and it moves through about 20 degrees before any pressure is felt. Any tips? I was using an easy bleed kit.

Thanks

James
Post #586559 20th Dec 2016 3:30pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 890

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
You've likely still got air in it. It shoukd be steady pressure from the start 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #586563 20th Dec 2016 4:04pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 326

United Kingdom 
Yep ! Just got a few more bubbles out of it and it is a lot better but not perfect. Any tips on getting it totally bled? Should I drive it for a bit and then have another go at bleeding it?
Post #586586 20th Dec 2016 5:40pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 890

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
I suspect that you could do that and bleed again in a short while. I prefer to pump and bleed it out at the slave but it seems you are comfortable with what you are doing. Keep going... 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #586589 20th Dec 2016 5:54pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

You could try reverse bleeding it where you force fluid up from the slave to the master, or, sucking fluid down from the master without pumping with the peddle, or, having someone pump the peddle with the bleed nipple shut and hold it down, release nipple and expel the fluid and close nipple, release peddle and repeat process. Good luck Thumbs Up I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #586590 20th Dec 2016 5:55pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
On the TDCi the line goes up from the master (over/behind the ECU) before it goes down to the slave.

A perfect bubble trap. Neutral

My theory is that you gotta push hard and fast to keep them from coming back up in to that area while doing a standard bleed.

Is it the same on a TD5? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #586593 20th Dec 2016 6:01pm
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Vogler



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Belgium 2015 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
Take care in pushing hard and fast. If you inadvertedly empty the master cylinder and push (not even that hard) on the pedal, chances are likely that you'll destroy a valve in the master and you'll have to replace it.
BTDT, although I knew the risk was there and was careful when emptying the system. I only wanted to admit that it happened to me after I put 2 liters of Dot4 through the system and still couldn't shift gear.
Reverse bleeding works ace because you push the air upwards, the direction it wants to go. On a Td5 it also helps to jack up the front to limit the possibility of air being trapped in the slave.

Not sure about a bubble trap in the Td5 as you describe it, don't think it is there.

Greetings,

Joris.
Post #586613 20th Dec 2016 7:24pm
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Vogler



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

Belgium 2015 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
I remember having read that it might become better if you let the car sit overnight with the pedal blocked in the bottom position, by using a piece of timber between the seat box and the pedal. No idea if it is true though...

J
Post #586615 20th Dec 2016 7:28pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2519

Scotland 
All Defenders, and Series III for that matter, have the clutch pipe go up and over the top of the engine bay before descending down to the slave cylinder. However I have never found them difficult to bleed.

I've always just bled them enough to get a working pedal, and then over the next day or two the rest of the air works it's way up to the top (helped by the larger diameter of the pipework - 1/4" rather than 3/16" for brakes) through normal operation. Then just top up the reservoir.
Post #586617 20th Dec 2016 7:32pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 326

United Kingdom 
Well I pumped a litre through and it is much better but not 100% I may just leave it and hope the bubbles surface before topping up. I am reluctant to reverse bleed as I will have to empty out the master cylinder and introduce more air into the system from the slave end.
Post #586628 20th Dec 2016 8:02pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Don't empty the master cylinder resovoir completely, leave enough fluid to cover the inlet port of the cylinder when reverse bleeding, and watch it does not overfill obviously. I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #586631 20th Dec 2016 8:22pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2158

United Kingdom 
I have had the same issue on more than one occasion with bleeding a TD5 clutch.

No matter what you do, there's free play at the top of the pedal and the biting point is too low.

The solution is to bleed the clutch so you end up with the above. Then wedge the pedal down overnight with a piece of wood or similar.

Next morning the pedal will be perfect with no free play.
Post #586819 21st Dec 2016 6:54pm
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Bobbyg



Member Since: 05 Jan 2017
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 26

England 1987 Defender 90 2.5 n/a Diesel PU Orkney Grey
Master cylinder and slave cylinder
Hi after meny years of trying to get clutch operation without success I changed both the slave and master cylinder set up the master cylinder as per manual bleed meny times still no clutch presure.is Bow down there a way to view the clutch operation with the gear box in place.my landrover is a 2a converted to a 88 coiler with a 2.5 petrol engine.i bought the landy in bits ie engine was still to fit when I got it.could it be a mismatch of parts .if I can't sort this out its going up for sale .any ideas .
Thanks Bob
Post #792981 14th Sep 2019 8:51am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2062

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Do you have the correct length push rod fitted between slave and fork ?
Is the slave cylinder the right way up with the bleed nipple at the top.
Is it the right clutch ?
Is the friction plate fitted the right way round ?

How is it not working ?
Slipping ?
Dragging ?
No operation at all ?

These will all stop the clutch working as it should.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #792992 14th Sep 2019 10:33am
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Bobbyg



Member Since: 05 Jan 2017
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 26

England 1987 Defender 90 2.5 n/a Diesel PU Orkney Grey
Hi I have used the slave cylinder rod that came with the truck,I have the bleed nipple at the top of the cylinder.the clutch
Plate was free ok ,and in the correct position when I refitted it.i,m trying to avoid removing the engine again.is there some inspection plate to watch the operation of the clutch.its tempting to off load the landy and let some else have a play.
Thanks Bob
Post #793032 14th Sep 2019 5:28pm
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