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shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue

Timing Belt Bolt Grease

Hi guys,

Quick question.

I need to do my timing belt this weekend, I have bought all the bits inc new bolts.

What grease is recommended for the bolts to limit electrolytic reaction?

I have been told definitely do not ever ever use copper grease......but not what to use in its place?

Any recommendations?

Also any hits or tips for doing the job before I start?

Thank you as always!

Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

16th Nov 2016 2:26pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2547

What's wrong with copper grease? Always worked for me.

19th Nov 2016 6:19pm

sako243

Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1186

1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

You sure it's grease or should it be loctite? Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi

19th Nov 2016 6:22pm

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

Something about the copper and aluminium reacting badly and making it more aggressive on the casing.

Suppose it makes sense but as its all dry apart from the water pump I'm not sure what the risk is.

I assume when they were built they just put them in dry.

Sound good?

Not done timing belt before so its a bit scary. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

19th Nov 2016 11:23pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2547

Well that may be true but I've always copper-greased the bolts and they've always come undone again. Which is more than can be said for a few of the ones round the water pump the first time I did it which snapped off, requiring timing chest removal etc. to drill out and Helicoil the block. It's those three in a triangle which are most susceptible due to the proximity to water and the likelihood of the threads getting wet.

I have also always used a light smear of RTV on the gaskets around the water galleries etc. as it's an old engine and the mating faces are 'well used'.

Good luck, timing belt change is not difficult. Though the proper tools make it a lot easier!

20th Nov 2016 10:23am

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

Thanks man.

Its one of those important jobs which needs to be taken seriously because if you get it wrong its not good news but if done methodically it is just spanners and sockets so no different from doing a wheel bearing!

Problem is I have to travel to my parents to do it so its an early start 50 mile journey, let her cool down, then crack on!

Will print out the section of the workshop manual tomorrow. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

20th Nov 2016 6:18pm

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