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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Changing Ignition Switch
My ignition switch is playing up - it doesn't always spring return from the starter position, so the electrics die before the engine is running. I suppose that after 158k miles, it's just worn out.

Anyway, I have a new switch to fit and I've bought replacement shear bolts but, before I start taking things apart, am I missing anything other than brute force to remove the existing shear bolts?

Thanks for looking. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #573512 26th Oct 2016 12:13pm
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XS Pete



Member Since: 13 Jan 2011
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 632

England 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I didn't even attempt the brute force method when I changed mine, as I decided there just wasn't enough room and the risk of collateral damage would be great.

I ended up using my Bosch PMF180 multitool with a modified metal cutting blade on, and cut down through the shear bolts between where the two parts of the alloy casting come togther.

It was pretty fiddly, but it was the only way I could see of doing it without using some sort of physical violence.

Pete
Post #573524 26th Oct 2016 12:49pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
I used a small pointed punch and hammer on the shear bolts heads, fiddly at first but once you get the bolts turning it becomes easier and eventually they just spin out. Using a grinder or brute force risks damaging the steering shaft. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #573544 26th Oct 2016 1:34pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Thanks guys. Some useful ideas to try Thumbs Up Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #573553 26th Oct 2016 2:27pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
gilarion wrote:
I used a small pointed punch and hammer on the shear bolts heads, fiddly at first but once you get the bolts turning it becomes easier and eventually they just spin out. Using a grinder or brute force risks damaging the steering shaft.


Exactly how I did mine. Just kept hitting the punch off centre of the bolt and was persistent. After a little while, the bolt began to spin out. Seemed to work fine, slow and steady wins the race. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #573582 26th Oct 2016 5:11pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That is the "industry standard" method.
Post #573585 26th Oct 2016 5:17pm
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
Drill and extractor ?
Post #573644 26th Oct 2016 8:04pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Very, very difficult to centre the drill.
Post #573687 26th Oct 2016 9:38pm
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