 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Clutch rattle on 2007 Defender 2.4tdci |
 
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23   
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Hi all,
I was hoping to get some advice on a clutch concern - I have recently purchased a 2007 tcdi 110 station wagon with 45K miles and there is an audible noise / rattle when the vehicle is idling. The noise disappears when the clutch is depressed and there is quite an abrupt rattle when the engine is switched off and everything comes to a halt. The previous owner was completely transparent about this issue, which he claims has developed over the last few months - he told me that when he took the vehicle to the garage they suggested that the noise was probably due to compressed / damaged clutch springs. I am interested to know if the above symptoms support the well documented 'dodgy clutch' scenario. I was also hoping to get a handle on whether this problem was likely to get rapidly worse or whether I have a reasonable period of time in which to deal with it? - I have driven a few miles now and have not yet had any trouble selecting gear, but nevertheless I don't feel that happy with the sound and have a slight concern that it could let me down if ignored. Many thanks in advance for any feedback / advice. |
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22nd Sep 2016 10:37am |
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23
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Hi,
Thank you for your reply - that is pretty alarming! I am pretty certain that my Land Rover is on its original clutch as I have looked through the 'Lex Autolease' service printout which came with the vehicle and there is no evidence that the clutch has been replaced. Was your failure due to wear / breakup of the clutch springs? t From reading other posts on this site it looks as if Land Rover up issued the replacement clutch a couple of times, due I guess to premature failure. Would you be a ble to advise as to the latest clutch revision? Many thanks. |
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22nd Sep 2016 10:59am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19535
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Mine was a 2007 clutch so original, and you are right there are revised versions now.
I'm on a new 2014 clutch now, no problems. Thing with mine was there was no rattle to it. However, it can be a sign of impending failiure.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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22nd Sep 2016 11:18am |
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23
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Hi, it sounds like if I replace with the latest revision it should be OK.
As a matter of interest was your failure due to the clutch plate? Did you tackle the clutch replacement yourself or have the work done by a garage? Many thanks |
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22nd Sep 2016 11:23am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19535
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I'm pretty sure the friction plate was okay, they told me something along the lines that the clutch was pitted.
To be honest I can't remember quite sadly. My flywheel was in good condition. Mine was done at the time by Guy Salmon, LR Bristol. 900 or so! Too much of a complex job for me and no equipment to go with it. Would I go back there again unless I had no choice? No. Very impressed with D44 though, but if I had a big problem it's quite a drive from me to get there. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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22nd Sep 2016 1:06pm |
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23
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Thank you for your response,
It is a fairly major job, hence the cost. I will give it some thought before deciding whether to tackle it myself or not. Many thanks |
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22nd Sep 2016 2:48pm |
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23
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It would be good to hear from someone who has changed the clutch on a Defender 2.4tdci to get a feel for how tricky a job it is, a number of initial questions spring to mind:
Is it possible to shift gearbox / transfer-box assembly sufficiently far back to enable the clutch to be changed, or are you better to remove the transmission to gain full access? I don't have an engine crane, but do have an overhead hoist in the workshop and wondered if leaving the transmission in place and removing the engine from the vehicle was an easier option? I look forward to hearing others points of view on the job. |
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22nd Sep 2016 2:58pm |
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| Hal Member Since: 04 Jun 2014 Location: Bedford Posts: 91
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I recently changed my 2.4 110sw clutch. I just followed the w/s manual (you can find a link to it on this forum). I used a floor transmission jack (draper) splitting the xfer box off first, then the gearbox. Not difficult to do (except top three bolts on bell housing). It did take me some time but I'm old and doing it all from underneath with the vehicle on axle stands means there's a lot of crawling around. It's better if you have help. Cleverer forum members than me suggest you don't have to take the exhaust/cat out, there's room to move the gearbox back. I did it the hard way though and getting the exhaust down pipe back in was a bit like those nail puzzles you get at Christmas.
Splitting the xfer box let's you grease the mt80 shaft - always a good idea. Following the manual gave lots of room to change the slave cylinder. Obviously take all proper safety precautions. Xfer box and gearbox when split each weigh about 50-60kg. I made sure my 110 was rock steady before getting underneath. If you're patient and follow the manual it all goes exactly as it says on the tin. |
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24th Sep 2016 9:14pm |
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23
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Hi Hal,
Thank you for taking the trouble to give a detailed account of how you approached the job - I will read through the procedure as explained in the workshop manual and may well end up tackling the job the'hard way' due to limited equipment. All the best, |
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25th Sep 2016 6:51pm |
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| Bosvark Kzn Member Since: 04 Sep 2014 Location: Port Shepstone, Kzn, South Africa Posts: 7 
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Stickman, my 2011 2.4 tdci started doing the exact same shortly after I bought it (used vehicle) on 124000 km. I decided to drive it until it fails, but it's still going strong, current mileage 210000km. |
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9th Oct 2016 6:22pm |
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| Stickman Member Since: 20 Jun 2016 Location: South West Posts: 23
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Hi Bosvark,
Thank you for your response - that is reassuring to hear that you have run up a significant millage since the rattle started. All the best. |
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9th Oct 2016 7:33pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1727  
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Hi Stickman
As above mine rattled for 40k before I changed it - but I changed it when I read one of the other forum members had become stuck when a spring dropped out and lodged between centre plate and flywheel hence no drive! A local garage did mine and charged 300 ish plus parts Good luck Keith |
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9th Oct 2016 8:35pm |
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