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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2718

United Kingdom 
Greasing
So on my 2016 110, what should I be greasing?

I'm trying to be well set up to protect and look after it into the future! Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #558782 25th Aug 2016 7:49am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

prop shaft UJ
Post #558789 25th Aug 2016 8:11am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2718

United Kingdom 
Yep that was the one I kinda knew - not looked on the recent ones, are they fitted with a nipple? Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #558790 25th Aug 2016 8:17am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2718

United Kingdom 
**duplicate** Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #559003 25th Aug 2016 10:41pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Check the drive flanges are lubed with respect to the halfshafts, they wont be out of the factory, but IMO after seeing the red powder accumulate from fretting then corrosion it's a good thing.

By rights you should replace the gasket when you do this, not too much drama Smile

Easy with steels! Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #559017 26th Aug 2016 3:50am
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Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230

Australia 
Mine has no grease nipples in any of the steering gear which surprised me.
All my universals have nipples fitted(MY12).
The drive flanges as mentioned, mine where dry when I got it with 3 years of use.


Long term maintenance when you want to go pulling things apart as time/millage gets on...
Wheel bearings.
Swivel hubs/CV's.


With great risk of opening a can of worms...
Although not listed by LR for maintenance don't forget the dreaded adaptor shaft. Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #559019 26th Aug 2016 4:58am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
agentmulder wrote:
Check the drive flanges are lubed with respect to the halfshafts, they wont be out of the factory, but IMO after seeing the red powder accumulate from fretting then corrosion it's a good thing.

By rights you should replace the gasket when you do this, not too much drama Smile

Easy with steels!


How do you grease them? What do you do once you've remove the dust cap?
Post #559084 26th Aug 2016 12:05pm
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 1006

Wales 
Weld the back ones up Whistle and lube the fronts with some ep90
Post #559189 26th Aug 2016 7:31pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Cupboard wrote:
How do you grease them? What do you do once you've remove the dust cap?


Remove circlip. (If initial inspection shows a lot of corrosion it's probably a good idea to have some spares and/or just install new ones after, they're real cheap...)

Remove 5X flange bolts and pull off the flange, a tap with a hammer will assist in breaking the gasket connection to the hub (and if corroded breaking any 'rust-weld' between it and the halfshaft). Easier to do than explain Thumbs Up

If the halfshalft comes out on the rear, no fuss, good opportunity to check the internal splines also...

Clean up the flange and hub from gasket residue (use a gasket scraper or something expensive from the kitchen), clean up flange and outer shaft splines and inspect backlash/meshing. Replace if required (and your wallet permits). Use OEM and/or bearmach or better, definitely not britpart pattern.

Otherwise grease up splines. Easy! I used heaps (to allow for the wiping action of the reinsertion)

Insert shaft into axle, fiddle until it seats properly into the diff, oh and try to be careful not to force the internal seal out of the stub axle if you get resistance after the first 200mm or so.

Clean flange bolts or install new, return flange and new flange gasket, torque up to WSM spec (and loctite if specced).

Circlip, grease packed dust cover, wheels.

Drive to shop to get some biccies.


(I'll look up torque specs layer, phone currently on %3 battery!) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #559235 26th Aug 2016 9:14pm
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1611

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Just reading posts on drive flanges and have been looking at potentially changing mine eventually, however as the vehicle is pretty new I thought I would just whip off the drive flanges and lubricate the splines first. I know folks have used grease but I quite like Rocol anti scuffing paste and wondered if anyone has used this in preference to grease to lubricate the splines?
Post #608190 9th Mar 2017 6:39pm
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