 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Shaggydogs Running Restoration |
 
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189   
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Hows the resto going?
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23rd May 2016 10:33pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346 
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Sadly not much to report on her recently. Havent even put the rear ladder on!
 Click image to enlarge Put in my 1200th Litre of diesel since Jan tonight, rolled over to 178800. Her sunroof has developed a very annoying leak for my girlfriend as it is over her seat. Toying with the idea of buying a whole new roof without the sunroof instead or trying to replace the seal again. Still need to do Timing Belt, Brake rebuild all round (disks, pads, callipers, grease wheel bearings etc) Also want to strip the gearbox tunnel out to try and find the source of an oil leak from the top of the box. I want to think its the breather pipe but the amount which is there leads me to think it could be a bit deeper. Actualy thinking about it, I never did find out where that roll pin came from. Humm......food for thaught. Actualy I'm going to make a to do list while I'm thinking about it 
1. Timing belt 2. Brakes Overhaul 3. Gearbox oil leak 4. Rear Diff nose seal 5. Rotate tyres 6. Oil change'(s) + General Servicing (onging but still a to do) 7. Weld/Replace Front and Middle Row Doors 8. Underseal/paint underneath. 9. Service Webasto/investigate heater seals ready for winter (will probebly get to this point in September!) 10. Sound Proofing/Insulation 11. Sort front bumper 12. Clean light lenses. 13. Rear ladder 14. Investigate Roof -swap or fix 15. Change cappings for galvenised ones and properly paint USW sides. 16. Look at other side of bulkhead -rot starting to come through 
17. Have time, money and energy to do it all.
How is your truck behaving? Been to Land Rover Tonbridge Recently? Big change now they were dropped by Harwoods? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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23rd May 2016 11:04pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Very nice
 Is that in Havana or Corris?
What did you think of Lancasters now? I haven been back since they swapped over as I have moved to the other side of Kent. Its amazing how much you miss the defender driving style. I had a borrowed FL2 and at the end I was convinced I wanted to buy a Discovery, until I drove my 110 home and heart mind and truck all reconnected and she wasn't going anywhere! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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24th May 2016 12:59pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Time to get the brakes sorted!
Mine have been wearing thin now for quits some, looking at the pistons I didn't like the way they looked so it would not be a case of squeeze them back, new pads and off you go job list was as follows, probably in installments as I'm doing this in my lunch break so please bear with the breaks. Remove old calipers, remove old brake disks, inspect and re-fit bearings, fit new disks, calipers and pads. So usual thing, diff lock, hand brake, wheel chocks, wheel off. I also used the standard LR jack to lift the body up a bit to give me a bit of space as I'm 6'2" and need a bit of room to move around. So what are we looking at. Click image to enlarge Wheel removed. Looking quite clean. First thing to do was to ease the pads back close enough that you can remove the pads. As my disks were a bit lipped they had to go quite far back. Once the pads are removed clamp off the flexible hose to minimize leakage. Click image to enlarge I removed the hard pipes as the calipers are coming off which means the swivel does not need to be touched. At some point in its life it has suffered a wallop and crushed the pipe a bit. It doesn't seem to have had any ill effect but it will be changed anyway as a mater of course. Off to a good start then! 
Click image to enlarge Caliper off and on the floor. A 12 pointed socket is required for this and they can be a bit interesting to get at but a breaker bar removes them quite readily. I am going to push the pistons out and give the caliper a shot blast and clean over the next few weeks to see if they can be re-used. Pistons look in really good shape but they have some poc marking to the exterior which is of course a seal so more investigation required! Click image to enlarge Disk exposed! There is a bit of oil contamination on the inside too which is coming from the hub seal- this will be replaced in due coarse. Click image to enlarge So how do you get the Drive member bolts undone once the wheel is off the floor? Yes, correct you should have cracked them off while the tyre was still on the floor, but this was done to show you how to do it using a Breaker bar to lock the axle using the wheel studs. Note, as my 110 is an earlier one the Drive Flange bolts use spring washers to act as a locking method. Click image to enlarge Better quality pic showing how the breaker bar has been used. Now, this is where it gets a bit interesting. The oil seals on the end of the Axle and Cv for the half shaft have at some point been removed as there is a lot of ep90/cv grease in here. looking at the Drive member it is in remarkably good condition with little or no slack in it. I compared it to the other side which has got seals in it (i fitted them last year some time) and there is much more noticeable wear on the grease only side. This to me, in my very unscientific test would show that running without the seals does have some advantages. BUT, I would not go stripping down a perfectly good axle to remove 4 seals. ANYWAY, if you look closely you will notice the inner and outer hub nuts. Between them is a star shaped Tab Washer. This type looks like a ring with lots of little lobes on it which you bend over. This type is perfectly fine to use but has the slight disadvantage that it will not always line up perfectly with the flat you want. Click image to enlarge Before I moved anything and with the drive flange off I gave the wheel a good spin in both directions to get a feel for how tight things are to begin with. The tab washer is used now so is scrap. Bend up the tabs and undo the outer nut. Gently undo the inner nut and recover the thicker spacer which goes between the nut and the bearing. Keep a hand on the hub as it is now loose and liable to fall off causing damage to the parts or yourself. Click image to enlarge Grab the whole assembly and pull it towards you taking care not to drag it over the threads. This will reveal the stub axle. Mine has got some very light marking but no scoring or obvious damage. Remember to inspect all around the stub and not just the top and sides! Click image to enlarge The hub assembly is then placed on a bench ready to process. The outer hub bearing is seen here full of a mix of old grease, cv joint grease and ep90. It is very important that you do not mix up the bearings as they will have warn to suit the bearing shell which is still retained in the Hub. Click image to enlarge The outer bearing race is removed and cleaned in a solution of white spirit or gunk or anything which will help soak the grease out of it. Once dry inspect it for any signs of damage, discoloration or chips. Put it to one side in a sealed sandwich bag marked with its id so you know which side it came from and to keep it clear of dust and grit. Thats all for now folks as I gotta get back to work !  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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25th Jul 2016 1:40pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Update time so must be lunch hour!
Click image to enlarge So while the bearings are cleaned I set about removing the disk. These 5 bolts hold the brake disk to the hub. Again, because mine is an older version it uses spring washers to help lock them in place. These are removed and the hub gently tapped free with a soft mallet. Click image to enlarge One dead disk. Not anywhere near as bad as the disks which came off the Td5 but still under tolerance. This goes in the bin. Click image to enlarge The hub is then cleaned and the mating surfaces given a wire brushing. It is well worth taking your time on this bit as it will ensure you get a good clean flat surface to mount your new disks against. If it has a bit of rust or crud it will hold the disk off the hub and cause run out issues at best or worst cause vibration and come loose!  It is also a good time to run a tap down the threads to clear them out. Much to my dismay the previous person in here had taken a chisel to remove the old bearing shell and has riveted this one in  All the time these bearings hold up its not a problem but as soon as they need replacing it will mean a new hub as you wont be able to get a new set in cleanly with the damage present. Future shaggydog problem.
Click image to enlarge The new disk has a thin layer of copper grease to add some protection and heat resistance very lightly smeared on the mating faces and then they are remounted. Click image to enlarge I decided to reuse the bolts as they were in good condition. The spring washers were replaced and a dab of locktite added for good measure. These were then torqued back up the same way you would a wheel nut. Click image to enlarge Shiny clean oil and grease and white spirit free bearing ready to go back in. This stage it is well worth keeping a packet of gloves handy so you can quickly change them to decrease the risk of contamination. Click image to enlarge Love this bit. Work the grease into the bearings. It is important that you make sure it is full of grease by forcing the grease in the bottom and out of the top. This will also drag out any last bits of old grease so be prepared to use a lot more than you thought. Click image to enlarge Gratuitous greasy hand shot. Click image to enlarge Plonk. Before putting the bearing back in make sure the race is clean and has a thin smear of grease on it. Click image to enlarge Wipe away any excess grease from the walls of the hub to make sure the hub seal gets the best possible chance of sealing tight. Click image to enlarge The double lipped seal. I chose this over the standard seal as this side has oil seals removed internally and it would be a hell of a pain to have to do it all apart again to change this one seal. Note how it gives you a clue as to its orientation and how deep to fit it. Click image to enlarge The seal is a very tight fit and needs to be gently tapped into position. I used an old bearing shell to make sure that the delicate lips of the seal were undamaged. There is an official tool to do this but I don't have one and an old bearing worked fine. The depth was checked with a depth gauge to 4mm Click image to enlarge Flip the whole assembly over, new gloves, new grease and bearing plopped back into place. On the stub axle a thin layer of grease was wiped over it to help it to slide on freely. Click image to enlarge And then reassemble, throw it back together and drive off.......HA only joking! And thats the end of lunch time, bearing tightening coming up tomorrow, thank you those who are reading! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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26th Jul 2016 1:34pm |
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| lb73 Member Since: 27 May 2016 Location: North Wales Posts: 287 
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Excellent thread, just read it all from the start. Keep up the good work.
Leigh |
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26th Jul 2016 8:45pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Thank you Leigh Glad you enjoy it
It must be lunchtime again so update time! Click image to enlarge Where were we, ahh yes. the Key washer is fitted and the nut fitted and then tightened up until no free play is felt. This is actually not that tight as the bearings are in good condition. This is where it gets a bit convoluted. Click image to enlarge The workshop manual then proceeds to state thus "Mount a dial gauge using bracket RO 530106 and rest the stylus in a loaded condition on the adjusting nut. Slacken off the adjusting nut until an end-play of 0,1270 to 0,1016 mm (0.0005 to 0.004 in) is obtained" I didn't have the correct bracket so used my mag mount to stick it to the brake disk. This method is surely bonkers, as you zero the dial on the nut as specified, if it shows no free play you remove it, knock the nut back a bit, then re-zero it, nothing, knock it back a bit, too much. knock it forward, re-zero, check. It is such a pain to do. I got the desired result between the 2 figures and to be honest it felt a bit sloppy. In the end, I tightened the nut up and rotated the wheel back and forth. It slid around nicely there was no slop so I put the tab washer back on and fitted the outer nut. Click image to enlarge The outer nut is done up tight and the tab washer staked over. Because reasons, I seem to have been sent one star type washer and one disk type washer. Both are fine, just different styles. I prefer the disk type as it gives 360' to bend over the nut whereas the star type one is a bit more limited. Click image to enlarge Disk type tab washer for comparison. Click image to enlarge So there we are, all done up I gave it another good few spins back and forth and it ran on for about the same time with no ill noises, grinding, wobbling so for now all is well. I also took the opportunity to de-grease the braking surfaces as they had gotten a bit greasy from all the handling. Click image to enlarge Before putting the drive flanges back on check the run out on the disks. It is vital there ideally 0 but as close to 0 run out as possible. If there is any run out then you have to take it all apart again, move the disk around 1 hole on the hub, clean it and reassemble. Less of an issue on new disks but if refitting old disks it can an issue. Click image to enlarge Although the drive flange was in reasonable condition I decided to replace it. I put a smear of copper grease on the inside edge of the splines to make sure when engaged the shaft gets a good coating. New gaskets and gasket lube are applied. Not sure if I mentioned it or not but the mating faces for the drive member were also cleaned ready to take the new gasket. Click image to enlarge The Calipers are refitted and the caliper bolts fitted with locktite and new spring clips. The pads are also installed. Click image to enlarge Difference between new pads and old pads. I would not want to run my pads any lower than this!
Click image to enlarge Time to bleed the brakes. Usual process with UP....Down........Up.....Down.... being called to the driver as the bleed nipple is tweaked at the appropriate times. This is then repeated on the other side and wheels on, wheel nuts torqued, back down and off for a gentle test drive. It all felt a bit funny to begin with but this was traced to a front spring having become dislodged slightly. Once the spring had been re-seated with a hammer and block of wood and a very satisfying twang another gentle test drive and all seems well. The front and rear hubs all get up to the same temperature, there is no binding and no nasty noises or smells. As she stands today since doing it on Sunday they have done 340 miles so I would call that a success! All in all, its not a difficult process, its just got a lot of stages all of which are very methodical. Along with the need to keep things clean. Quite interesting the difference in play between the oiled and non oiled splines- I will report back with how the new flanges wear in the future to see if it is repeated. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Jul 2016 1:35pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Bit of an update
Other than the usual back and forth between work and home not much to report. The paint has had an unfortunate run in which has meant she is going to need a respray. I'm not paying for it which sounds great but does mean I am going to have to replace the Doors, Cappings, Wheel arch spats so that is a little horrendous overspend I had not quite wanted to pay for at the moment so negotiations are ongoing
On the plus side some more "how I did it's" on there way for those who enjoy reading through them (if they are helpful at all) Away from paintwork my mudflaps suffered the standard mudflap problem of over flexing and cracking which is annoying. So having purchased some new ones I decided to make some stiffeners to help spread the flex across the thickest part rather than some of the thin bit with the rest just to flap around. Here is what I came up with. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge What do we think? So far they seem to work, no increase in noise or anything like that but will keep an eye on them and see how they go. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Sep 2016 6:14pm |
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| Rosco Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Burntwood Posts: 1799 
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That looks like a decent mod
Would a similar shaped piece on the inside help prevent the common problem of the flap folding into the tyre whilst towing?
How bad is the paint then? 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone 2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone 2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW |
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27th Sep 2016 8:13pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Possibly, Don't see why it wouldn't. I think if it were glued to it it may add some strength.
The problem is if any strengtheners were any lower it would get knocked off or bent while off road. I think the best route for the towing issue is to chain them up to the cross member using a quick release bungee or chain and a spreader plate attached to the bottom of the flap. The paint looks like every panel has been sprinkled with clutch fluid. Basically they sprayed the bodywork with Traffic Film Remover, Undiluted, In Direct Sunlight, Onto Hot Bodywork and let it dry - going exactly against everything is says on the bottle 
All the exterior seals and plastics have been damaged, all of the rubbers have been damaged, all of the paint has been damaged - but they wont warranty the paintwork on corroded parts - so I have to replace them in order for them to do the work! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Sep 2016 11:48pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Movement coming soon!
The work has finally been agreed with the garage who created the horrendous mess to the paintwork (in August!) so now just need to buy 4 doors and a front bumper and off she goes to the paint shop for 8 weeks to be stripped, painted and put back together. Before she does though I'm going to replace the capping's with Galvanised ones to try and future proof it a bit and may have the other side of the bulkhead out too for more welding. After which, she is sort of done really. Not sure how I feel about it. I could try and sell (though that didn't go down well last time) or I could keep her stored as a occasional use car. The worry being havin now got her back to really good condition I don't want to risk damaging her (or worse loosing her) I would quite like another 110 but maybe a purpose built Utility or another Td5 CSW but the prices are a bit mental at the moment. That stage again  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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31st Oct 2016 2:28pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10359
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Dilemma!!
A friend imported a split van v-dub from Cali and restored it, he never used it because it was so nice... He totally regretted doing such a good job! Sold it in the end. Keep it, you'll regret selling. |
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31st Oct 2016 7:19pm |
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| Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 809  
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Understand completely, In a similar boat myself at the moment, 110 tdi now completed and afraid to drive it much in case I scratch or damage it, after 14mts of hard work and nice new clean chassis and underside, I'm not really using it for what it was built for .......Also terrified too of it been stolen
Nidge |
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1st Nov 2016 8:22pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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I really do want to keep it but I don't want to make her into a weekend car because I know myself and I will just put it in storage and not use it for months and months and then take it out for a weekend and not put it back for months and months.
I don't really want to sell it, but as both have pointed out, I would just spend my whole time worrying about it or not using it. So do I sell it or see if I can swap it? What sort of value will I get for it because everyone is very quick to say I'd have one but very few get there cheque book out. Also I am going to have to replace it with something and the values of some of the trucks out there right now are ridiculous! Wouldn't mind swapping for a Tdi or Td5 130 or 110 Station wagon utility and starting again. Decisions decisions because if I am doing it to sell, may as well save some money and put standard doors back on, if I am keeping it spend the extra and get galvanised doors. I am supposed to be saving up for a house too so If I can sell it for enough to buy something else, and have a bit left over that would be great but perhaps unrealistic? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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2nd Nov 2016 2:14pm |
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