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chinnus



Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

2001 Defender 90 Td5 ST Coniston Green
Best Company for hoodsticks and hood
Hey everyone,

Pretty keen to get my 2001 green pickup into a full soft top.
Looking at the sand canvas and hoodstick set from exmoor and the seat belt mounting rail coming in at around a grand.

Does anyone have any better ideas? As there is an 8 week wait on the hood!!!! Big Cry
Are the exmoor hoods the best? Can I do it any cheaper than that? What have other people done?

Any help will be gratefully appreciated!

Tom Bow down
Post #530971 12th May 2016 12:40pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Give Steve a shout at Comptons..

www.undercovercovers.co.uk 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #530982 12th May 2016 1:07pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

undercover made me cover for my 90 pick-up good work, keen price to Thumbs Up

http://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/Frames.html#Defender for hood sticks


Last edited by dorsetsmith on 12th May 2016 1:32pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #530985 12th May 2016 1:20pm
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pjb



Member Since: 08 Apr 2009
Location: Sunny Oxford
Posts: 1244

Hood sticks I got from Purely metal http://www.purelymetal.co.uk/

No coinnection to me just very good solid set 2020 P300 HSE
Post #530987 12th May 2016 1:25pm
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chinnus



Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

2001 Defender 90 Td5 ST Coniston Green
thanks for the responses so far guys...

I like the idea of the sand canvas... I have heard there are different types of lashings to keep it tight... whats best the poppers or the ropes??

I would need to fix the poppers and the cleats to my car as it has none so far

Tom
Post #531085 12th May 2016 7:35pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Canvas is the way to go, you won't regret it Thumbs Up

Dad had a NAS 90 replica which used the popper studs on a mohair hood, they were quick to use but after a few years would pull out of the body. In addition once the mohair shrunk a little it was a PITA to stretch the hood to meet the poppers and they used to rattle in the wind at motorway speeds.

My 90 has a standard canvas tilt held down with rope/cleats, albeit with bungee used on the rear flap to make it quicker to open. It takes a bit longer to put the roof on/off but it was cheap and easily repairable if damaged. A litre of Fabsil brushed over once a year and it's perfectly dry Very Happy

Harry
Post #531200 13th May 2016 8:55am
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datcullen



Member Since: 15 Aug 2013
Location: UK & Italy
Posts: 153

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Java Black
I'd recommend going with bungee rather than tenax pop fastners:

It's been about 4 or 5 years since we replaced the canvas tilt with a mohair hood (can't remember where from) and we went for fastners.

Hood has been great and the fastners on the sides are ok as they don't get used as often. The rear ones however have got very sticky and (as Harry.O said) now the mohair has shrunk slightly it's really difficult to get them done up. The strain when they are done up has led to the stitching that joins the back section with the top parting company.
Just been to see a local (semi-retired) coach-trimmer who's going to repair it and replace the rear fastners with bungee. 110 UW - '15 2.2
90 - '85 V8 soft-top
RRC - '84 5 door, Option Pack C, 33k miles from new
---
Elise S1 - '00 Millennium SE
Elan +2 - '68 kit built by my dad
Panda 4x4 - '87 in Italy
Post #531209 13th May 2016 9:40am
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chinnus



Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

2001 Defender 90 Td5 ST Coniston Green
all very useful advice guys I appreciate it..... I think i will be going for the canvas as you said.

Last thing.... Do all the sand canvases... at least from exmoor have roll up sides... I think that is one of the most important things haha

Tom
Post #531216 13th May 2016 9:58am
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
They should do yes, most of them are the same design. One thing when you get a new one, strap it down as tight as possible (using the rope) and soak it several times over a few weeks. The hood will shrink slightly and fit better. If it gets wet without being tightened and in particular if the back is rolled up then it will shrink too much and you'll end up with a gap between the top of the tailgate and the rear flap.

Or save yourself some cash and leave the roof behind Cool Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge
Post #531222 13th May 2016 10:25am
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
id definately go for mohair than canvas.
Post #531227 13th May 2016 10:59am
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chinnus



Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

2001 Defender 90 Td5 ST Coniston Green
So I went for the purely metal hood stick set with integrated mounts
and a sand canvas from allwheeltrim - budget wouldnt stretch to mohair!!

Installing this weekend!
Post #533206 20th May 2016 4:52pm
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minicab



Member Since: 21 Jun 2016
Location: Kingston-upon-Thames, Surrey
Posts: 11

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Any pictures yet? I am about to order for my 110 pick up truck a 3/4 hood and sticks and would like to see how others are getting on with their projects.
Thanks
Minica
Post #543022 24th Jun 2016 3:16pm
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chinnus



Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

2001 Defender 90 Td5 ST Coniston Green
will take some pictures tomorrow all went together really well... watch this space!
Post #543438 26th Jun 2016 12:12am
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chinnus



Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

2001 Defender 90 Td5 ST Coniston Green
Here are the completed external photograpgs


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Internal Photos



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Location of horseshoe ring and "back staple" on left hand side


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Right hand side, because of my spare wheel carrier i couldnt rivet in the right hand part of the right hand staple so used a bolt. Also the brass bit of the canvas tie down i have had to cut off as it wouldnt fit through the right hand staple again due to the spare wheel carrier. Going to dip in wax to stop it fraying



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The drain channels also didnt line up with the rest of the door so I used some washers to space it out to make it all line up nicely!


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The Drain channels also clattered against the hoodstick set from purely metal so a rather nice bodge both sides was to put some rubber between them, plan to cut to size in the future


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I made these foam gaskets between the hoodsticks and the body cappings to stop vibrations and also stop it scratching my tub. Every part has this on


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All of the fittings came were zinc coated bolts which would probably have been fine but I am a stainless steel kinda guy so i upgraded all bolts nuts and washers to SS. Few random pictures below!



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Something else to add. The seat belt mounting bolt isn't metric. The size is 7/16" (i have no idea what that is being a metric man) Again I bought a SS nut and it fits fine. The bolt isnt quiet long enough to hit the nyloc part but hasnt loosened so far, just something to check every now and then

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291211447041?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT


Last edited by chinnus on 26th Jun 2016 7:38pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #543596 26th Jun 2016 6:50pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10359

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up
Post #543600 26th Jun 2016 7:12pm
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