 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > My Next Project & Help please (Soundproofing) |
 
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091  |
I started with the rear load space and the wheel boxes and continued forward over the seat boxes and front floor. Didn't bother with anywhere where there is insulation already. Door panels were done as well with an additional 5mm layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the back of the door cards. Roof was done with 10mm CCF. Floor area made more difference in terms of noise but doors and roof gave you that satisfying feeling on solidness. Overall it's a real PITA to do but well worth the effort IMO.
Good luck  I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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17th Jun 2016 6:59pm |
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| Scott_Landy Member Since: 24 Aug 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 85  
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Thinking of doing this myself in the coming months. Please post photos and experience if you can!
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18th Jun 2016 8:08am |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2870 |
When I removed the headlining to have some dents removed most of my Skinz had peeled off the roof. Had to strip the entire lot off, going to redo it with dynamat, it's a bit thinner. Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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19th Jun 2016 8:37am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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If you don't have enough to do the whole defender it's best to start with the biggest flattest panels, so roof, rear floor then rear wheel arches as this will deaden the stone and water noises while driving. Just remember though, sound deadening doesn't stop any noise from outside it just stops panel vibration noise hence putting it on flat panels
Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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19th Jun 2016 10:50am |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
I dont know of any way around this but others might! ...one of the most common area for rusting and leaking is the bulkhead i would be wary of sticking down stuff to that area as it makes inspecting the area difficult and the coating could hide lots and lots of nasties........I would at least make sure all the joints are sealed before applying the sound proofing and i would lift off the plastic carpet stuff and give it a coat of bilts wax underneath!As you might miss the early signs of rusting because you cannot have a look easily!
 Click image to enlarge |
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19th Jun 2016 1:06pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3693
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^ I did exactly that on Friday, took the carpets up on the drivers side, cleaned and polished the bear floor then painted the screw heads with rust proofing.
Spent an Hour or so outside this afternoon in the rain... handy having a carport 
started...decided to do the drivers door first as the door do sound like empty cans being dropped when you shut them. door card off Click image to enlarge remove foam cover Click image to enlarge Add sound proofing, very easy and nice stuff to work with, roll it on as best I could. Click image to enlarge Add a little bit of 'bling' while apart, looks nice but does not allot the central locking to open / close as too tight, will have to look at this. Click image to enlarge Door sounds so much better than 1 hr ago !!!! |
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19th Jun 2016 8:34pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
How easy is it to get door card off without destroying the fixings?
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19th Jun 2016 9:45pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3693
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easy with this...
Only one clip stayed on the card side but easily swapped over, didn't brake any. Click image to enlarge 1 screw behind door opener 2 screws holding handle you use to shut Prize the door lock surround up slightly. carefully remove the foam from the black tar like sticky stuff. |
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19th Jun 2016 10:05pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
Thanks stacyoo7..im not going to sound deaden as there is so much water running from the bottom of the front door when you open the door after it rains im concerned obout the sound deadening stuff holding water ...im going to give the interior a good coating of bilts wax though and ive been putting it off because i didnt want to ruin the doorcard!
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19th Jun 2016 10:36pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3693
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Drove to work today,
Now bear in mind I've only done the door and part of the rear load area, some of which I hadn't stuck down yet just rested it on. It WAS quieter... for sure, amazing. I was sceptical as it does seem a lot of money for something that you will never see and doesn't seem that much but wow. I'm impressed to far, maybe not saying this when I have to take the seats out....
Also this should help? Click image to enlarge |
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20th Jun 2016 11:05am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3693
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Bit more this afternoon over the passenger side rear arch and boot floor.
Really nice stuff to work with, also tomorrows job to cut the foam ready to sit on top before the carpet, then the mat.... Boot will be about an inch less deep  May fit some foam to doors also to make them thud more
Used the roller to pad down after cleaning the boot floor then also used heat proof tape? to seal the joins. Looks quite neat although will be covered
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Passenger side arch Click image to enlarge Using the carpet I will cut round slightly wider for the foam on top. Click image to enlarge From one bulk box so far it seems to be going a long way... Click image to enlarge |
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25th Jun 2016 9:42pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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did you take the rear seats out to do the sides and wheel boxes?
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25th Jun 2016 10:10pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3693
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Honest answer no, I did try....
I've covered 95% of the metal behind, under, at the side etc, From what I have read about this stuff it does not have to cover the whole surface area to work. So should still be pretty good, and better then nothing, I also have 6mm closed cell foam over the sound proofing then the original carpet, then to finish an extra removable carpet. So its pretty thick now. Reason I did not remove seats, really struggling with two bolts on the first even though I socked them in WD40 over night. Then as we go on Holiday soon I didn't want to have a real struggle putting them back in if they are a pain to remove. I was removing them for a bit more room but the kids like using them. I know that's not brilliant but really with the carpets pulled back, wedged open I really did get virtually all areas covered it just meant more cuts. There is little you cannot get to just means folding the seat half down and climbing in the back in awkward positions....
in fact more done today 6mm Foam cover over the top. Click image to enlarge Made fitting the seat covers fun as now almost a cm higher in thickness to refit the plugs.. Click image to enlarge Back of boot from rear seats, sides up to trim now covered in 2mm silent coat and 6mm foam closed cell. Click image to enlarge Original carpet to be laid over this and them my removable carpet on top of this... Fun bit will be to re fit a new Stainless rear sill cover now its so thick |
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26th Jun 2016 8:08pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189
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"Fun bit will be to re fit a new Stainless rear sill cover now its so thick"
Longer screws 
Have you driven it yet? Do you notice much difference? |
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26th Jun 2016 8:16pm |
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