 | Home > Technical > Best way to repair stripped transfer box drain plug |
 
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| Pilgrimmick Member Since: 16 Nov 2015 Location: Highlands Posts: 581  
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Helicoil should seal it, if not would a Rivnut work? 80" 1948
Lightweight V8 Bowler Tomcat 130 Station wagon 90 300tdi (Santana PS10 pick up) Range Rover L322 (Ful fat) |
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8th Feb 2016 7:24pm |
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| Arierep Member Since: 13 Apr 2013 Location: Portugal Posts: 258  
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Can you confirm the thread is M12x1.5?
Thanks |
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8th Feb 2016 9:54pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7683 
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i would recut it to M13 Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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8th Feb 2016 11:40pm |
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| Lambley Member Since: 20 Apr 2013 Location: Mid Devon Posts: 1435 
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I've got a very similar problem on my transfer box, the head of the drain plug has come off, probably over tightened, it's not an issue at the moment because it's not leaking and the oil is fairly fresh, but it will need to come out and be swapped at some stage
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8th Feb 2016 11:46pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2078 
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There's no reason why you can't helicoil it to the original thread size and then use the correct drain bolt. It'll be stronger than the original thread cut in the cast aluminium. Do seach for 'Recoil' insert kits.
A non standard drain plug may cause problems with replacement in the future in any case, particularly an m13 which is not a common thread. HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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9th Feb 2016 2:52am |
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| Mountain_man Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Right side of Offas Dyke Posts: 756 
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I had this happen on a box (that I subsequently did not end up fitting). I think it is a strange size/pitch if I remember. Possibly imperial. I drilled it slightly larger and retapped it for a bigger bolt with no problem. However, make sure the bolt is only as long as the original since even a few mms longer will foul with the gear just above the hole (ask me how I know
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9th Feb 2016 9:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16863 
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Bearing in mind the origins of the box it could well be an older thread such as 3/8" BSPF. I think at one time the drain plugs tended to be 1/4 BSPT with square heads.
It would be safest if you measured the OD and pitch of the plug so that a positive thread ID can be made. |
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9th Feb 2016 9:47am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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A Wurth Time Sert insert would be best in this application IMHO, we use them regularly at work and they are by far the easiest and strongest. Just about any M12 bolt with a suitable washer will then keep your oil where it's supposed to be.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-WURTH-M12-x-...RywJm1LcPA If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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9th Feb 2016 10:13am |
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| Arierep Member Since: 13 Apr 2013 Location: Portugal Posts: 258
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You got me with that one. I'll go the Helicoil route. How about this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301400071354?var...Track=true |
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9th Feb 2016 9:09pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2078
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That set looks like it has all you need. I'm not familiar with that particular make but I'm sure it'll do the job.
Take your time, drill and tap the old hole out squarely. The kit should come with coils of varying length, it is very important to choose the best length that keeps both ends of the coil within the cut thread ie. shorter than the thickness of the transfer case. Wind the coil in carefully, the tang goes in the slot on the tool and the tang end goes in first, it should screw in like a good fitting bolt. If it sticks or feels like it's cross threaded, don't force it, try to gently turn it back out. If it won't turn back out then use pliers to stretch it and uncoil it and it will come out albeit scrap. Run your tap through again gently to clear any burrs and try again. They are very sensitive to cross threading so be very careful when you start screwing. When the coil is completely below the level of the surface remove the tool from the tang, turn it through 90° and give the tang a sharp tap to knock it off. Now screw your bolt in 😊 HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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10th Feb 2016 12:05am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16863
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I see that in the thread you started on the same subject in 2013 Dave Ashcroft confirmed that the thread is M12 x 1.5mm pitch. If Dave says that's what it is, then that is what it is! 
One possibility muight be to take it up to M14 x 1.25 which is the thread used on many LR (and other manufacturers') sump plugs. Don't forget to make sure that you get all the swarf (and the tang of the helicoil if you use one) out of the box afterwards. |
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10th Feb 2016 10:53am |
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| Arierep Member Since: 13 Apr 2013 Location: Portugal Posts: 258
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Thanks
Do you think compressed air through the filling hole will help to clean the swarf? Or Am I better opening the sump plate? |
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10th Feb 2016 11:26am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16863
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I would remove the bottom plate, I think, that way you know that the inside is clean (and you can also inspect the inside gubbins of the box).
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10th Feb 2016 11:30am |
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| Arierep Member Since: 13 Apr 2013 Location: Portugal Posts: 258
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I assume a new gasket will be needed
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10th Feb 2016 11:31am |
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