 | Home > In Car Electronics > Spot Light Wiring using STC53208 Kit |
 
|
|
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480   
|
It sounds like mse had a custom wiring arrangement where his spots were switched only by the spot switch, not controlled with main beam.
The switch in the kit is latching and if fitted with the loom supplied it provides the 'isolate' function with main beam switching exactly as you desire. Not a problem to use only one of the connectors, the electricity won't leak out of the other   1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
18th Nov 2015 9:50pm |
|
| L90Andy Member Since: 29 May 2014 Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon Posts: 716 
|
Good news. Thanks for putting my mind at rest
 |
||
|
18th Nov 2015 11:11pm |
|
| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024 
|
Im not sure either of that is what i was getting at but i can barely remember
 
The OEM switch is latching - I was commenting on using the switch to turning the spot lights on and off got boring The spotlights weren't triggered by the main beam circuit they were independent - which was what the spotlight 2 switch was originally for EG: not reliant on main beam being on or off. You could run the spot lights with the headlights on or off i recall or certainly with main beam on or off. My point was if you are turning the spot lights on via main beam, why bother with the switch, if you need main beam you most likely want your spots... The other scenario is you have them on the stand alone circuit where you use the oe button to turn them on or off - this just gets boring. I suppose the option you guys are talking about is wiring the feed to the switch to the main beam feed so you need the switch on and main beam - but to me that just seems a waste and offers nothing additional? What i was talking about was introducing a switch to allow it to run direct off main beam or through the 2 switch does that make a bit more sense Mike |
||
|
19th Nov 2015 12:37am |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
For MOT purposes spot lamps must have a switch and a warning lamp. That is why there is a switch in these kits.
It sounds like your spots were wired up differently to that intended. The kit under discussion here (and the Puma versions) certainly use main beam feed to trigger the relay. Only cool kids who wired their own have Off-With Beam-On 
Click image to enlarge (Right hand switch in centre panel) 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
19th Nov 2015 12:44am |
|
| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024
|
Mine were wired for a specific purpose, so no issue.
we covered MOT thing above - its not strictly true they need a separate switch for MOT purposes, its one of those self created rules from years of forums it seems 
Spot lights must have a warning lamp, to indicate that they are on - this is covered if they are wired to main beam circuit by the blue indication in the speedo clock. They are switched by the mainbeam switch so therefore can be turned off so as not to dazel this therefore full-fills the MOT criteria. If you didnt use the main beam circuit they would still need a warning lamp to indicate the are on and aux light 2 switch covers that (just as you need to indicate the light is on at the rear) I remember a discussion years ago on LRO forum and I think i found the a document that made this really clear...They do not need to be isolated further many MOT's many cars, including land rovers wired that way
I might see if i can find that document actually Mike |
||
|
19th Nov 2015 1:07am |
|
| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024
|
Click image to enlarge One such document - still looking for the other Mike |
||
|
19th Nov 2015 1:11am |
|
| L90Andy Member Since: 29 May 2014 Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon Posts: 716
|
Right got all the bits required now, and surprise surprise I have another question.
The image below is the LR loom with spot connector on the left, and the flylead from the lightbar on the right. I have a male econoseal connector to crimp onto the lightbar flylead, but which wires go where? If its not clear, the LR loom has a black wire and a blue/yellow wire. Black to black?? Also, any tips for fitting an econoseal connector gratefully received! Thanks Click image to enlarge |
||
|
26th Nov 2015 10:07pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
Black to black, blue/yellow to red
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
26th Nov 2015 10:08pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
I can't really improve on this procedure if you don't have crimpers: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=1864
The terminals you have are bigger so slightly easier to work with. The dab of solder recommended is not a bad idea. I don't know where you are but I am happy to crimp the connector on if you're ever in/around Leamington during the day 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
26th Nov 2015 10:13pm |
|
| L90Andy Member Since: 29 May 2014 Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon Posts: 716
|
Thanks again Martin. I think I'm slowly learning!!
I'm taking those bits into work tomorrow as a colleague has the correct crimping tool. That doesn't mean he knows how to work it though so if it all goes bad I'll be in touch. I'm only 10 miles from Hooky.. |
||
|
26th Nov 2015 10:52pm |
|
| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6480
|
10 miles from Hooky is no distance, just give me a shout if you need
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
||
|
26th Nov 2015 10:56pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
