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| Beery Member Since: 16 Nov 2014 Location: NSW Posts: 36   
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Certainly have. I plan to do my own at some point (I'm in the process of becoming a fridgey). I've heard of good results with hychill and other hydrocarbons. It should further reduce load on the compressor and engine, extending its life and saving fuel.
Just make sure whoever converts your system, pulls down a good vacuum on it and makes sure it holds vacuum for a good while to be sure there are no leaks. You dont want propane leaking into the cabin! |
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1st Feb 2015 9:38am |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327  
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Awesome, glad you got it sorted. I wasn't so lucky. Mine is fully pressurised so not a gas issue. Looking at the wiring diagram for it, I'm suspecting the Thermistor (as already mentioned previously). Not only does the clutch not kick in, but also the cooling fan doesn't kick in. Therefore, it seems that for some reason the ECM is disabling the A/C which is either the pressure sensor or thermistor. If there was a compressor issue, I'd expect the fan to still start unless there is some clever programming in the ECM. Looks like the thermistor is connected to the underside of the heater unit. Looks like a bitch to get to, but hopefully can be done without removing the dash and heater unit. The other thing it may be, and it would be great if it is, I ran a new cable behind that side of the dash a couple of weeks back, I might of disturbed the plug to the thermistor when I ran it.......... I'll get the multimeter out on the weekend to confirm. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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5th Feb 2015 12:18pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 322 
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X-Isle, I have the opposite problem where the a/c works then gets very cold before freezing up. The sensor needs replacing in my case and the heater does need to come out to do this - Landrover quote it as a 4.1 hour job
Hopefully it is just your connector that has become disconnected. If you do need to replace the sensor, its part no. LR036309 about £25. See this for positioning of the sensor on the evaporator core. |
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5th Feb 2015 4:52pm |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327
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 - Ouch!
That also means an A/C drain too which is a right pain in the ass as it's nasty stuff to just vent out. I'm guessing that there was an issue as I also discovered the part number you listed which also shows as it superseded the original part number of JQL500010 Might be a summer job that one! Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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5th Feb 2015 4:55pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 322
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Fortunately I have a local ATS that can do a system evacuation for me.
First I need my shoulder to heal so I can physically do the job. |
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5th Feb 2015 5:01pm |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327
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Defendership never ceases to amaze me.
Located the loom for the thermistor and all was ok. So I got the multimeter out to see if the compressor clutch was being called upon. So with the compressor clutch plug disconnected I fired up the engine and turned on the AC. Imagine my surprise when the cooling fan kicked in! Plugged the compressor back in and kicked into life. It's only staying in for about 6 seconds before switching off for about 20 seconds and being called for again which I'm putting down to the fact that the air temperature is only 3 degree. However, not only are the vents cold but it also demisted all the windows so all looks good. I took another look at the thermistor loom (as this is the only thing I touched) and all seems good. Perhaps just a bad connection in the plug and a wiggle made good. ATS attempted a re-gas yesterday and because it was almost full and only put a tiny top up, they refunded me. Just gave them a tenner for their help. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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5th Feb 2015 6:02pm |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 123 
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Having the thermistor switch fail is common here,I've also had the drain plug with mud which caused drama's also. Pat
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6th Feb 2015 12:59am |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327
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Drain plug was the first issue I ever had with my Puma. Water in the foot well due to it overflowing.
Someone on here pointed me in the right direction to open the teat on the end of the pipe and I got drenched there was so much water trapped in there. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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6th Feb 2015 1:07am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673 
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Here's an update to my story...
I had the AC system serviced and the compressor is dead thanks to the leaking cooling coil so that was replaced now, the cooling coil converted and all other knickknacks replaced. At first I was told that a Jap thermostat would be used as apparently mine seemed dead but was informed that it would not be as cold as original until an original LR thermostat is used. We also installed a cabin filter so that intake of dirt and crud would be minimized. So all was well for a time until the thermostat arrived and I scheduled the work. I was then informed that there was still crud in the system somehow and they had to vacuum it out or something. Then the compressor would not cut off like with my original thermostat before with the new thermostat so the Jap one was put back in and the coldness level pumped up. I guess I didn't need to buy the thermostat after all? In any case, I was driving the truck home when all of a sudden, the left round vent was only blowing warm air but upon feeling the other vents, they were blowing cold air. WEIRD! I informed my friend and they are still looking into it as to why it is doing this. By the way, they told me to ensure that there is no more crud in the system, I should change out the bent condenser coil up front, the one behind the grille. *SIGH* I was thinking of just buying the whole cooling coil assembly from LR and get it over with but will it really solve my issues? Apparently my blower motor is now weak and will need replacing as well. Go figure. When it rains, it really pours! What do all y'all think? Advice and input greatly appreciated so I can put the AC issue to rest and concentrate on dealing with other issues carried over from the previous owner. |
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4th Jun 2015 7:37am |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568
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Dynamat certainly helps in the Pilbara! I had a problem with the aircon, thermistor was changed, still didn't work. So the sensor in the evaporator was changed.I think they had too remove the heater. Over time it's performance has deteriated next service I will get it seen too. Decat and centre box removal from Gary at Alive resulted in almost the elimination of under floor heat, will very little noise increase! This mod is highly recommended!
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6th Jun 2015 8:40am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673
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Interesting...
I contacted my friend and got a second opinion as well and with the current set up, my only recourse is to bypass the heater core as we don't use the heater in the tropics anyways. Completely reversible though should global warming decide to grace us with snow somehow. In any case, if a bypass will affect other systems, I think I'll just plunk down the money and spring for all original as the previous factory set up worked a treat before the death of the original compressor. What do all y'all think? Should I bypass or just pony up? |
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6th Jun 2015 8:58pm |
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| Montblanc Member Since: 10 Feb 2013 Location: Les Houches, Chamonix Valley Posts: 14  
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My Air Con has just started to dribble down the transmission tunnel carpets causing a surprising amount of water after a 10 hour drive across France. Can anyone tell me where to look to find the drain (see above) which, I assume is now blocked. Cheers. |
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30th Jun 2015 9:56pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673
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Another update...
It seems that the little valve thingie for the heater core was not fully closed, so we popped the bonnet, and pushed the little thing down and adjusted the cable so it would stay down when not needed. That seemed to have solved the problem. I also found and replaced a bolt missing at the driver side (left) wheel well somewhere near the parking brake which lead to heat coming into the cabin and tightened a few more bolts while we were at it. It gets cold now but still not as cold when using the original cooling coil so this may be something I should start saving up for for a swap over at a later date and keep this conversion as a spare just in case. As I said, at least it's cold now and no longer a rolling oven like before. I sure wish some of the accessories makers here produce a supplementary A/C unit for the back that just runs off the original compressor to help with cooling and for those who do need it, heating. *HINT! HINT!* |
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1st Jul 2015 2:08am |
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| Montblanc Member Since: 10 Feb 2013 Location: Les Houches, Chamonix Valley Posts: 14
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OK - found it: above the middle of the gearbox. As stated above: as soon as I moved it with my figures water started running out. When the water finished I manipulated it some more for good measure. Anybody know if there is more than one teat as I could only reach up the right hand side of the gearbox? |
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1st Jul 2015 12:16pm |
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