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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Sorry to re-live this thread again but I have a couple of problems I have on mine for the rear ladder. There are two at the top that spin that are barely possible to remove the bolt but luckily can access the rear. And four at the bottom none of these spin which is lucky but one seems to come out forwards a little. The top two I'm thinking of removing to fit a stronger mounting because I don't think they are strong enough anyway but for the time being can these just be tightened up and they will be fine? Never attempted to try this because I haven't had a tool nor attempted the home made version.
So will they be okay if just tightened up for now? Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #263587 3rd Sep 2013 10:09pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes, it's ok to tighten them. If you can get to the back, of course, then nuts and bolts may be better. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #263588 3rd Sep 2013 10:14pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
That's what i was thinking for the top two. AFAIK LR fitted them but IMO are not strong enough for purpose. There isn't even a washer on the back. Shocked Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #263590 3rd Sep 2013 10:21pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Not having a washer on the back isn't that big a deal, assuming they're fitted properly. They are designed to fit into panels where access to the rear isn't possible anyway. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #263592 3rd Sep 2013 10:24pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Very true, but there is access on these two and I get the impression it was done quickly just to get it on. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #263594 3rd Sep 2013 10:26pm
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Eric L



Member Since: 16 Aug 2007
Location: IN93uc
Posts: 15

France 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
ingenious ! Bow down Bow down December 2007 110 Defender. 106000 KM
Post #296078 5th Jan 2014 6:19pm
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L90Andy



Member Since: 29 May 2014
Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon
Posts: 716

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
Old post revival I know, but as a 'Sticky' I thought this maybe useful. Image below is taken from the LR OEM Lamp Guard fitting instructions. Shows a very simplistic method of fitting rivnuts. Haven't tried it myself (yet!) but it bears some resemblance to the method described by Litch regarding the flat metal strip.

Post #426849 28th May 2015 10:17am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

This is worth a look if your working out how to approach this...

Both with and without a Tool... fitting the Defender Front Light Guards
also gets a mention.

The usual requirement of needing 3 hands when using a home made Tool
is also refereed to... Shocked

 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #426860 28th May 2015 11:27am
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schweps



Member Since: 21 Oct 2014
Location: Zonguldak
Posts: 47

Turkey 2005 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Alpine White
Hi,
For small size rivnuts (al or st) i use ordinary pop up rivet tool by some little changes.
What you need is a threaded rod with a suitable length and same size with the nut. A thick washer and a normal nut (may be two).
If you remove the capsule holding the jaws and the spring, you can easily insert the rod. All you need is stretching movement of the rivet tool that it is still capable of.
















Post #464569 19th Oct 2015 8:59am
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LoveTheMud



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Weybridge Surrey & Pontefract West Yorkshire
Posts: 411

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
having successfully ruined my poor fathers hands (blind leading the blind) and both of us getting blood everywhere, i say this...if you are going to use the crap method they give you in the destruction manual, then dont...its easier and kinder on your hands to buy the tool with the many mandrels needed... you wont regret it and the car is held together by rivets so there is always another mod or fix that requires them Smile defo worth the investment
Post #506995 22nd Feb 2016 2:23pm
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Coatesyyy



Member Since: 07 Sep 2017
Location: Knutsford
Posts: 423

United Kingdom 
That's brilliant, thanks Thumbs Up
Post #652603 25th Sep 2017 10:56am
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GrouseII



Member Since: 29 Dec 2017
Location: Bucks
Posts: 37

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Coniston Green
Hi
As others, I apologise for opening this up again but I have spent a frustrating afternoon shearing bolts and rounding nuts using the DIY method. See pic.

It is only a 6mm but it hardly flexes until the bolt shears or nut rounds or my muscles give in. My question is that is it possible some (cheap) rivnuts are rock hard and will not work with the DIY method. I only have two to do so dont want to waste loads o money on a tool.

Perhaps someone can recommend a 'soft' brand of riv nut Smile

Thanks

Grouse 2

Post #699246 7th Apr 2018 6:56pm
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TACK



Member Since: 26 Apr 2009
Location: Essex
Posts: 1045

Feel your pain. I have found exactly the same in the past and gave up after about only 50% success. Same issues as you have had. It only to get you out of trouble but anything more than that, buying the tool is the way to go👍

Tack
Post #699262 7th Apr 2018 7:24pm
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1611

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
It’s almost impossibly to crush the steel rivnuts with the simple home made tool. However the aluminium rivnuts will work well with the home made tool.
Post #699303 7th Apr 2018 9:21pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I think your problem lies with the nut and bolt, not the rivnut.

Most coach bolts are 4.8 grade at best, which is roughly comparable to mature cheddar.

I've done loads the DIY way using decent 8.8 bolts and grade 8 nuts.

Equally a short armed rivnut setter is only £35 on Amazon and works well!
Post #699397 8th Apr 2018 1:49pm
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