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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Which grease to use for hubs/alloy wheels?
I have been using plenty copper slip on the hubs when my steel winter Wolf wheels are put on.
But after Easter I will put a new set of SVX dual tone wheels on, and I have been reading that copper slip is not the right grease to use for alloys, due to its metal content.
Would ceramic grease be better for this? That is metal free, and supposedly is good for isolating the alloy from the steel hubs, so avoid bi-metal reactions.
Eric

Found this one on amazon, and thinking of ordering.
http://www.amazon.de/Innotec-Ceramic-Greas...ease+spray You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #411770 28th Mar 2015 6:41pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I use Castrol graphite moly. Grease .. It's black and greasy Thumbs Up
Post #411773 28th Mar 2015 6:44pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Always used copperslip on vehicles with alloys. I too have read about people recommending not to; but my experience with a set of wheels I still have that are 14 years old is that it has never done any harm.
Post #411814 28th Mar 2015 8:08pm
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GUM97



Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3555

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Stornoway Grey
Always used CopperGrease, and everybody I know does too! An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"
Post #411820 28th Mar 2015 8:26pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
+1 Thumbs Up

Dissimilar metal corrosion needs basically three things....oxygen , moisture and a different electrolytic potential between two mediums. Removing the moisture and oxygen are easy and you could use just about any grease to do this as long as you can get it to stay put at high rotational speeds. Using copperslip with it's conductive properties also assists in keeping the two different metals to the same electrolytic potential. Hope this makes sense.

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #411895 29th Mar 2015 12:22am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
As someone that's never greased a hub when putting a wheel on, should I be, and what advantage does it give?
I can absolutely see the point of putting copper slip on the studs.
Post #411941 29th Mar 2015 10:18am
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GUM97



Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3555

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Stornoway Grey
Greasing hubs has one huge advantage...the wheels are easier to get off when you want to get them off! If you've ever tried to get a set of wheels off that have been on for a long time with no grease, you'll know it bloody hard work! An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"
Post #411946 29th Mar 2015 10:29am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Agree with Gum.....read this as an example, copperslip used there too.......the internet is 'festooned' with examples of alloys siezed onto the hubs due to corrosion...

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/24941...d-on-drum/ If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #411950 29th Mar 2015 10:39am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
corrosion block grease , best of both worlds , slippery and anti corrosion
Post #411958 29th Mar 2015 11:04am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
So I've never actually taken an alloy wheel off Embarassed
But I've never had one of the steel wheels I've taken off get stuck, and I've experienced some pretty rusty steels!
Even an LDV Convoy that had lived on the Welsh coast and had a severe case of body tin-worm had no issues.

Maybe I should be inspecting my car wheels at some point! If it can do it on a one year old Skoda, it can certainly do it on a 3 year old Hyundai.

I wish I'd read this thread yesterday when I had my Defender up in the air with the wheels off Rolling Eyes
Post #411961 29th Mar 2015 11:11am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
a lot of the problem is pressure washing the wheel , the water and traffic film remover/wheel cleaner used gets in behind the water and starts the alloy corrosion between the disslimer metals

most wheel/traffic film remover has a acid/alkaline in it which speeds process up
Post #411962 29th Mar 2015 11:17am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
The pressure loss experience on the other thread is quite often down to the tyre fitters damaging the clear lack finish with metal levers when fitting the tyres perhaps? If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #411965 29th Mar 2015 11:26am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I ordered a can of the Innotec Ceramic Grease Spray. The description specifically talks about it being free of silicon and of metal content, and ideal to avoid contact corrossion between rims and hubs... I guess I buy that argument.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #411979 29th Mar 2015 12:22pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Workshop manual is clear:

"Alloy wheels: Lightly coat wheel mounting spigot face with a suitable anti-seize compound to minimise possibility of adhesion between wheel and spigot face."
Post #411981 29th Mar 2015 12:29pm
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Merlin



Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 980

United Kingdom 
Copper grease corrodes alloy, use LM grease. I know it's used extensively, but that doesn't make it right!

Merlin
Post #412036 29th Mar 2015 4:14pm
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