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110tow



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Sumatra Black
1000w inverter fault
Evening all.

When I got my 110 there was a 1000w sealey inverter bolted to the racking which ive never used. I had a bit of free time today so squared a few jobs away. When I turned the inverter on the "low voltage" buzzer and light came on. I checked it with my multimeter and there's 14v's going to it until I switch the inverter on and then it drops down to to 10.6v across the polls.

Anyone got any experience with these? I'm guessing it's fubar'd

Cheers,

James
Post #403881 2nd Mar 2015 10:26pm
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derbywill



Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 539

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Java Black
So the voltage into the inverter is dropping to 10v ? If so sounds like a supply problem, a multimeter doesn't check the there's any current there only voltage try checking the connections and inline fuse if fitted
Regards
Will 2005 90 XS
1954 86'' Series 1 tilt
Post #403900 2nd Mar 2015 10:49pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19535

United Kingdom 
What sort of gauge is the power and earth feeds cable?
Post #403928 2nd Mar 2015 11:39pm
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110tow



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Sumatra Black
They are decent enough cable. I'll take a pic and see if I can see markings on them.

It used to work fine apparently.

The inline fuse is fine as are the conections at both ends.

I presumed the fault would be internal as the voltage drops when it's switched on however there's no instruction book and a look online hasn't told me anything obvious.

Thanks for the replies
Post #404008 3rd Mar 2015 10:01am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Dependant on the model you have there are instructions available here or you can contact them for previous models. The low voltage alarm comes on at 10.5 volts but the unit will not shut down until 10 volts so you should still have an ac output to this point. I would measure the output to see if you have one and check the supply and particularly the negative earth. To be sure I would run a temporary 'jury rig' earth straight back to the negative of the battery and measure both the input and outputs again as a comparison.

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?...ctid=13068 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #404026 3rd Mar 2015 10:25am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19535

United Kingdom 
I was wonder if it was voltage drop due to a possible long cable run or smaller gauge cable or a mixture of both.
Could be not the case at all of course.
Post #404071 3rd Mar 2015 1:15pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Are you using it with the engine on?

I had a similar problem and it would only work with the engine on tick over or while driving. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #404087 3rd Mar 2015 2:17pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
At 14 volts going to the invertor in the first post the engine is either running or the battery has grown another cell. Laughing If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #404102 3rd Mar 2015 2:57pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Definately an issue with the wiring to the inverter here...

However don't be fooled, it may not be the positive supply that's the issue!

How is it grounded?

To test if the positive or negative feed is at fault do the following:

1) Attach a length of wire to the positive terminal on your battery, clamp or cable tie it on if you have to, doesn't have to be thick wire, thin will do whatever you have to hand and make it long enough to reach your multimeter whilst at your inverter.

2) Set your multimeter to read DC voltage, place one end on the positive terminal at the inverter and one on the end of your cable (which is in turn connected to the positive battery post).

3) Switch on the inverter with no load. Take a note of the reading on your multimeter, ideally it needs to be less than 0.4v.

4) Move your length of wire to the negative battery terminal and repeat the test, this time putting your multimeter to the negative terminal on the inverter. Again you'd hope for less than 0.4v.

What this is measuring is the voltage loss between the battery and the load and if you have a reading above 0.4v on either positive or negative (or over 0.4v combined) then you have an issue, be it high resistance at a joint or a cable that is not up to the job.

Once you have the issue sorted with no load on the inverter you should repeat the above test with a load applied to the inverter to make sure that again you don't suffer a huge loss once the load is applied.

Hope this helps Smile Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #404130 3rd Mar 2015 5:04pm
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