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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Factory Split Charge Or Aftermarket?
Hi guys,

I want to fit a second battery to my 110 to run the webasto and any other slow drain electrical fittings I have got planned.

Because my 110 is of the 91 vintage it has provisions for a factory standard split charge built into the loom.

Now, it looks like a simple fit but do I trust wiring which hasn't been used for 23 years or do I fit a modern equivalent?

And if so which one? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #374603 27th Nov 2014 4:25pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
interesting, do you know when they stopped making that loom? My 109 thread

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Post #374604 27th Nov 2014 4:29pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Not sure, I don't have my manual here atm but will have a look and post a pic of the page so you can see if the plug is present in your loom.

Quite a lot of me wants to use it and keep it factory standard, but quite a lot of me doesn't want a huge electrical fire Shocked Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #374607 27th Nov 2014 4:40pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
That’s a hard one, as it all depends on the condition of the wires in the loom, if the insulating material on the wires is still good and flexible then it would probably be all right, but any insulation that is brittle would require the wire to be replaced. Wiring of that vintage is very different to the thin wall auto wire that is supplied today; also the coper strands on older wire are of a much thicker gauge. The main worry with older wiring is that the copper or tin strands have started to corrode inside the sleeve and as such may prevent voltage drops.

However to be perfectly safe and for peace of mind I would go with new wiring as modern micro-processor controlled battery to battery chargers have wiring that just connects to the main battery, so the wiring up of the split charge unit is very simple and are easy to fit and requires no connection to the vehicle alternator or other electrics on the vehicle. The relays inside the processor controlled battery to battery chargers sense when the starter battery is at full charge and then switch to charge the second battery.
Post #374611 27th Nov 2014 5:09pm
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Kent_keith



Member Since: 01 Jun 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 388

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
Post #374686 27th Nov 2014 9:50pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I think I will go with a newer system.

There is just that little nag at the back of my head that says I can wire it all up turn it on and then big puff of smoke.

Here is the factory one for future reference!


Click image to enlarge
 Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #374708 27th Nov 2014 10:36pm
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