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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Transfer case swapping - questions
I have spotted a LT230 1.2:1 from a 300tdi Discovery that has the hi/low and difflock and has done 127k (50k less than mine)
It needs the handbrake plate swapping over which looks straight forward.
Are the Hi/Low & Difflocks selectors cable or rod operated?

Looking at the TC, it looks like when seperated there will be a splined shaft sticking out the gearbox that the TC mates onto is that correct?
Does the g/box oil need draining?
Can the TC be dropped without having to remove cubby box, carpet, flooring etc? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366083 21st Oct 2014 7:00am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Hi/low is rod operated.
Yes splined shaft join the two boxes
No you don't have to drain g box oil
Yes you can do it all leaving interior complete but it is easier if removed, but quicker if you don't remove interior.

Andy
Post #366091 21st Oct 2014 7:37am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers Andy. Is difflock rod operated as well?
Sounds an easy job.....with a trolley jack on my back in the drive. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366092 21st Oct 2014 7:47am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Yes mate both are rod operated. Trolley jack on the drive is ok, BUT, it is heavy, and it is a Censored as it's not well balanced. You must be careful of the oil seal in the transfer box, where the shaft from g box goes in, otherwise you will get oil coming out between the two boxes and the t box will have to come off again. Also some joining bolts are different lengths, and keep an eye on joining dowels between the boxes, as these can get stuck in either box.
Post #366094 21st Oct 2014 7:59am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers for the tips on the oil seals. I was aware it was heavy but not sure how heavy. I might have to think of a cradle for it. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366097 21st Oct 2014 8:23am
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TDCi Guy



Member Since: 17 Aug 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 286

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi HCPU Auto Keswick Green
It's more than possible on a trolley jack if you have one with enough reach. You'd need a second person though as it really needs one to keep the box steady as the other pulls and lowers the jack. Tom
@tditomprice
100” Defender Hybrid
2010 Alaska White 90 HT
Post #366100 21st Oct 2014 8:47am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I will be roping in assistance for the job Smile and trolley jack has a fair bit of height on it, but would have to measure it up first. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366104 21st Oct 2014 8:59am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It is easier if you have access to a transmission jack (which has a bigger footprint and a flat non-swively top, rather than the swively cup of a trolley jack), but can be done with a trolley jack with care. Trolley jacks tend to be taller in the lowered position and often have less lift than a transmission jack, so you may find that once you've lovwered the jack you have to lift the t-box off the jack to get it out from under the vehicle. The t-box can be lifted by one person, but not when lying under the car!

it is also a great deal easier if you make a wedge-shaped thing to put between the jack and the bottom of the t-box, since of course the bottom of the t-box slopes. There is a special tool for this, but it is an expensive option for a one-time job. I have used a couple of bits of wood screwed together to achieve the same result without problem.

Don't forget to drain the t-box before removing the bolts which hold it to the gearbox as the lower bolts keep the oil in.
Post #366114 21st Oct 2014 9:38am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Thanks blackwolf, dont think I have access to one...Might have to ask around.
I was thinking of making a shaped wedge to hold the TC at the right angle to aid removal/fitting.
Oil draining will be done.

Just purchased the Disco transfer case...Eeeeek! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366126 21st Oct 2014 10:47am
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fatman



Member Since: 14 Jan 2014
Location: Athens-Greece
Posts: 126

Greece 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
For your convinience,you can use 2-3 long bolts - with the head cut - bolted in place of the original bolts,it will help you a lot "sliding" the transfer case into position without worrying damaging the input seal or the case falling on your head.
The photos are from my previous disco 2,i thing it applies to defenders too..





Cheers.
Post #366135 21st Oct 2014 11:08am
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sharkey964



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: On a muddy track
Posts: 570

France 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
When i did mine,before I took the T/B off the G/B,I took the 2 top bolts out and replaced them with threaded bar,or long bolts with the heads cut off,about 120-150mm long.So when you take the old one off and present the new one yuo are clear of the splined shaft when the T/B drops,so no stress on the seals.
I did mine with the floor in place,it's a bit fiddly to disconect the hi/lo selector though.
Good luck. Very Happy
Post #366136 21st Oct 2014 11:11am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I like the idea of the bolts - cheers 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366145 21st Oct 2014 11:49am
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1410

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
Pretty simple as everyone else says Whistle I found the hardest bit was realigning the the splines on box when refitting. I used the long bolt method and lifted it in and out without any jacks. It is heavy and awkward but is possible Whistle
You would be alright with the chubby staying, but it is a lot easier removing transmission tunnel, especially for the diff lock rods . Take it for its initial test drive before you refit it. It will be noisey and draughty, but if things need a tweek you won't have to strip it all !! You will also need to swap your old speedo drive over and depending on the age of your current defender, there may be some electric connectors you cannot swop over easily. I believe these opperate the diff lock light on the dash, and throttle position sensativaty. I had it when I did mine, but don't miss either !! You can swap the casing around but I couldn't be bothered !Thumbs Up
Post #366199 21st Oct 2014 4:20pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5725

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
The Defender is a Jan 99 Model so will have the Hi/Low feed and the difflock light. The speedo drive is an unbolt jobbie?
The box going in is from a 1997 300Tdi Disco so should have the difflock warning light?

Taking the cubby box out might be an ideal time to have it recovered. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #366216 21st Oct 2014 5:03pm
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1410

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
Speedo drive is simple, believe they are colour coded , but swap for yours to keep speedo accurate. Not sure if it will have the feeds for warning lights or not. Mine was from a V8 disco, and no senders for me. I just taped the wires up out the way. I still have my old box, and could refit it if my usage changed, or the box fitted developed a problem. My theory was to change internals to make it 1.2 and refit, but so far it just sits on the floor of the garage! There is a good photo guide on lr4x4 by Les... Aka white90 sorry can't link as on the iPad and don't know how Whistle
Post #366219 21st Oct 2014 5:14pm
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