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Vitesse



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Sussex
Posts: 372

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Chequer plate fixing
Hello. I know the use of chequer plate is a marmite issue, but just wondering if anyone has fitted any plate to the sills by bonding it on?? I am think of using some on my new one next year but don't really want to drill anything. Anyone think this is possible or just a silly idea? Thank you. Smile 2015 90 XS Santorini Black
Post #365196 17th Oct 2014 1:17pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Vitesse

In principle this is not a silly idea.

I have done this with an alloy tread pattern material, on an all alloy boat and used 3M VHB tape.

3M have a service to advise on the tape type depending on the environment and conditions of use, in my case, a reasonably high temperature range (anodized alloy in prolonged sun light) and essentially semi submerged in salt water.

So in principle bonding chequer plate sills in place (or any other 'plate' parts) with VHB is I would say viable.

The only issue that comes to mind is that once on... there on, refinishing in time will probably have to be in situ. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #365200 17th Oct 2014 1:41pm
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Vitesse



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Sussex
Posts: 372

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hello Skip,
Many thanks. Yes, I viewed this as the plate being on "for life". I will investigate the 3M Tape you mention.
Thank you. 2015 90 XS Santorini Black
Post #365237 17th Oct 2014 4:27pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I use plenty of silicon sanitary it sticks well when cured and it is removable without damage. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #365261 17th Oct 2014 6:00pm
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Jonno1968



Member Since: 24 Oct 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Just bloddy rivet them on. Why would you need to take them off? Has any one on here ever needed to take them off?
Post #365272 17th Oct 2014 6:48pm
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Grouse



Member Since: 16 Apr 2012
Location: on the hill
Posts: 512

+1 of more concern would be if one came off on the motorway - a sheet of aluminium treadplate flying through the air and wacking a motorcyclist or other road user at 70 mph does not bare thinking about AND there is no way on earth sanitory silicone is going to hold tread plate on, on its own - 3m adhesive might but silicone is a bloody joke !
Post #365277 17th Oct 2014 6:59pm
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Ellisboy



Member Since: 13 Oct 2013
Location: Deep South
Posts: 539

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
You could stick them on with some Sika, the solar panel on my camper is glued to the roof using Sika ebt from Screwfix.No other fixing is needed,you can't physically pull it off,only cutting through the Sika with a bread knife will Seperate it.Modern adhesives are very good these days.
Post #365301 17th Oct 2014 8:26pm
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Mcmuffin



Member Since: 01 Apr 2014
Location: Antwerp city
Posts: 38

Belgium 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Keep in mind that you don't glue to te wing. You glue it to the paint layer on your wing! The strengt depends on the paint-quality too, so not only on the glue.
Kris


Last edited by Mcmuffin on 18th Oct 2014 9:48pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #365508 18th Oct 2014 8:38pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
Grouse wrote:
+1 of more concern would be if one came off on the motorway - a sheet of aluminium treadplate flying through the air and wacking a motorcyclist or other road user at 70 mph does not bare thinking about AND there is no way on earth sanitory silicone is going to hold tread plate on, on its own - 3m adhesive might but silicone is a bloody joke !



Did you try it?

Front number plate

Click image to enlarge


Rear number plate and checker plate land rover.

Click image to enlarge


While glueing:

Click image to enlarge



One of my Disco 3 door protectors is glued too:



Click image to enlarge
 Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #365527 18th Oct 2014 9:40pm
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Grouse



Member Since: 16 Apr 2012
Location: on the hill
Posts: 512

Errr! There is a bit of a difference between a tiny piece of chequer plate or a small number plate being stuck on! I stand by what I said - Sanitory silicone is not suitable for sticking on chequer plate panels to sills, wings or bonnets - sanitory silicone is not glue and is designed to keep effluent seeping behind your toilet! It simply isn't designed to hold vehicle panels on at motorway speeds, against wind and vibration etc - especially where other road used lives are at risk.
Post #365546 18th Oct 2014 11:18pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Grouse I would say is right, Silicone of any type is not the product to use, its primary role is a sealant not an adhesive, some talk about bonding but (IMO) you would be heading down the route of the 'no more nails' mentality of bringing two things together, they have there place, but start by looking at best route(s) out there.

You could use a few adhesives to tackle the original question, but as always it's in the detail.
It must be a product capable of the job, it must be applied correctly, surface preparation is required, (polish removal / panel wipes for example), also the large surface area of chequer plate whilst makes for a potentially good bond, a close even gap between surfaces is ideally required, trying to do this on a puma bonnet for example may not be wise if the supplied part is 'there or there abouts'.

3M VHB Tape / Rolls & Sheeting, depending on the type has a thickness that accommodates undulations and minor variations between the two mating surfaces, controlled pressure / spread clamping is required.

So whilst bonding is possible, and Mcmuffin makes a good point, you are bonding to the painted surface, so is it good enough, or do you need to surface key it.

If in any doubt may be Jonno1968 has it right, 'just mechanically fix them' (or something like that)

The point about if bonded correctly, they should be considered there for life, relates to refinishing them, if they are powered coated for example, or in a contrasting colour to your Defender, you will have to paint them in situ, if they require it later on, to do the best job (maintaining finish type and painting around edges) they should ideally come off, but it's marginal, mechanically fixing them back on will 'break' the painted finish at these points and corrosion will probably start from the rivets / fasteners.

I have wing tops and lower sills in colour coded (Stornoway Grey) mechanically fixed with SS countersunk bolts


Click image to enlarge


Even though I could remove them all (if needed), they will be resprayed in situ, keyed, etch primed, sprayed, and clear coated.

Off Topic
As I returned to my parked Defender last week I watched a driver parked next to me swing his door open (with his foot) into my side step. These have proved useful, not only to get in and to help when washing the roof, but to stop some car parking damage from Censored other motorists Thumbs Up SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #365571 19th Oct 2014 8:26am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
The sticky tape (probably 3M or similar) were my UK disco3 rear plate glued to my D3 was easy removable.

If I want to remove my silicon glued number plates I need to do a lot more work.

If silicon doesn't stick it also doesn't seal either. Mr. Green

Do whatever you feel right I didn't loose anything silicon glued yet. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #365600 19th Oct 2014 11:06am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5417

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
As a bathroom fitter I can tell you all that silicon sealer will hold it on, and I won't pop off the first time you reach 20mph. Try removing an old basin that is just held by the stuff, it sticks, well. Although saying that I would not use it I would sikaflex or tiger seal it on. Most modern cars are glued together these days, some cars rely one the sealer holding the glass in for 70% of the cars rigidity. So if sealer can hold glass to that level, and even to withhold and explosion such as air bags, a bit of cp won't be a problem. A good bed of pu sealer will be much stronger than half a dozen rivets.

Andy
Post #365605 19th Oct 2014 11:17am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Jonno1968 wrote:
Just bloddy rivet them on. Why would you need to take them off? Has any one on here ever needed to take them off?


YES! See my post page 1....

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic28048.html?highlight=crud If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #365822 20th Oct 2014 8:48am
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