 | Home > Camping, Caravanning and Holidays > How to secure demountable camper unit to HCPU tray? |
 
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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I would want something off the chassis , maybe a eye though the rear tub but with support off the chassis
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13th Oct 2014 12:05pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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Maybe drop a question at lelycampers.nl, they make demountable camperunits for the Defender. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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13th Oct 2014 1:24pm |
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| renticular Member Since: 15 Jul 2014 Location: Northampton Posts: 5 |
We have a member here can help you
http://demountablecampergroup.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=182 in normal circumstances eyebolts & turnbuckles are good enough, it depends on how far off-road you intend to go of course |
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14th Oct 2014 9:05am |
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| RoadForce Member Since: 17 Jul 2014 Location: Holland Posts: 323 
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Thanks all for the comments, and renticular for the post on the other forum.
What I know so far, is thatthere are 2 options: 1) some have bolted it to the floor of the load bed (by adding some plating to spread the stress). I am not sure I want to go that route. 2) Modify the brackets that secure the load tray to the chassis. I've been informed modifying the chassis itself is a no-no (legally at least, here in NL), but the brackets aren't actually part of the chassis, so can be mod'ed. The mod would consist of removing the bolts that hold the tray in place, drill the holes in the brackets to a larger diameter and fit larger eyebolts to hold down both the tray and the camper unit. As far as offroading goes: I don't plan any serious offroading with the unit mounted, but you never know what the road looks like around the corner so it should be as secure as I can get it. This 2nd option sounds best to me, but I would really like to see some pictures of this setup to make things more clear! Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000 |
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14th Oct 2014 10:02am |
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| RFT Member Since: 13 Nov 2010 Location: Cheshire Posts: 674  
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Ours is secured by 4 turnscrews to 4 eye bolts (as per your pictures above) bolted through the load tub floor these are at the web of the cross stiffeners and have additional washers underneath. The tie downs are angled outwards slightly hence act as a braced cradle in service. I wind the turn screws just tight, using a 19mm podger spanner, there is no need overload them.
My load tub is lined with 6mm ribbed rubber matting (machine mart) and this provides significant friction and security. The camper has 2 rubber buffers at the front that will push against the front of the tub under very heavy braking / crash. My camper has never moved in service and I've done a few emergency stops with it on the back and crossed a lot of mountain passes in the alps. I would avoid attaching to chassis and towing hitch as any chassis flex will be transmitted into the camper. Drop me a pm is you want any photos etc. Richard 130 Puma HCPU with an Artica 240LR Demountable Camper |
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14th Oct 2014 11:42am |
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| renticular Member Since: 15 Jul 2014 Location: Northampton Posts: 5 |
"I would avoid attaching to chassis and towing hitch as any chassis flex will be transmitted into the camper"
Not considered that actually, good idea, also do you feel the rubber mat is worth it, some of our members agree it is and roughly half against preffering if anything a sheet of ply to iron out the corrugations in load bed |
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14th Oct 2014 12:16pm |
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| RoadForce Member Since: 17 Jul 2014 Location: Holland Posts: 323
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I am planning to use antislip marine ply floorboard for the bottom, texture facing down. I don't know how it translates, but in Dutch it is called "Betonplex" and it is commonly used for trailer floors.
 Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000 |
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16th Oct 2014 1:32pm |
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| RoadForce Member Since: 17 Jul 2014 Location: Holland Posts: 323
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Great idea, I would LOVE to see a picture of this! 
I hadn't considered this, but you have a point I guess. I think it over... Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000 |
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16th Oct 2014 1:36pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858 
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There shouldn't be any perceptible chassis flex on a Defender! if it's flexing, you have a problem.
Your demountable will flex more than the chassis, and if I was mounting one my preferred option would be to anchor it to strong points attached to the chassis. It is not unknown for the rear tub to come off the chassis in severe accidents. If you don't want (or are not allowed) to weld brackets on the chassis, how about clamping a plate above and below the chassis rails with long bolts on each side of the rail, in the way that roll-over protection is sometimes fitted to triallers? |
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16th Oct 2014 2:07pm |
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| RoadForce Member Since: 17 Jul 2014 Location: Holland Posts: 323
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Well, to breathe some life back into this topic:
After doing some research, I disagree with blackwolf (sorry mate) that there should be no flex in the chassis: the 130's tub is known to 'move about' because the 130 doesn't have a sturdy box construction (with the roof and sides and all) and it has quite a long chassis. That being said, I still feel bolting the front of the camper unit to the chassis is the best way to go as the tub has been known to come off in accidents (the rear will be attached to the tow hitch). I was thinking of using the tub's mounting brackets on the chassis, as highlighted in the picture (which is of AndrewS's nice car). I plan to enlarge the holes in the brackets and put larger bolts (eye bolts) in. Are these the correct fixing points? Click image to enlarge Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000 |
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29th Oct 2014 9:57am |
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| tookaphotoof Member Since: 18 Mar 2013 Location: dordrecht Posts: 1279 
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This is how an RRCab is fixed.
Quite like the the camper unit because of its compact size: |
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29th Oct 2014 10:41am |
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| RoadForce Member Since: 17 Jul 2014 Location: Holland Posts: 323
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Thanks for that!
Looks like the brackets I highlighted, right? Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000 |
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29th Oct 2014 10:44am |
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| tookaphotoof Member Since: 18 Mar 2013 Location: dordrecht Posts: 1279
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I'm not 100% sure, but it does look like it.
If it's bolted down too the chassis and the unit isn't too big, I wouldn't even bother with fixing it to the towbar. I rather leave the towbar in the shed till I know I need it the following day. Have been stuck on it far too many times already. I have cargorails in the loadbed myself. As a unit like the RRCab only weigh around 200 kg, I'd probably be looking for a solution to fix it on the rails. Still toying with the idea to have a small mobile office so I can work anywhere I want to.  |
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29th Oct 2014 10:56am |
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| RoadForce Member Since: 17 Jul 2014 Location: Holland Posts: 323
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I think it's the same bracket.
It sure is a nice unit, that RRCab. 200kg for the unit itself is not bad at all, but fill up the 80L water tank and add luggage and camping equipment (folding chairs, BBQ etc) and things start to add up quite quickly I guess. Off topic, but: My french is not that great, but I think they don't have a waste / gray water tank, so you're just supposed to dump the 80L on the floor where you're camping? The downside of this unit is that, because of its small form factor, it only sleeps 2 adults and 2 kids, I require space to sleep 4 adults. And if at all possible, I don't want to use fabric but rigid walls. So my unit will come in quite a bit heavier (but I try to keep weight down as much as possible), hence the need to secure it properly haha! Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000 |
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29th Oct 2014 11:15am |
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