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Riyo



Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 89

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
ARB 47l fridge fuse
Probably a simple answer but does anyone know why the ARB says its nominal current draw @12V is 5.1A but it only has a 4A cabinet fuse in the back?

I got one today and it works fine, im just wondering why the fuse would be rated below normal current draw with the compressor on.
Post #347258 23rd Jul 2014 7:24pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
5.1 seems a lot! Drains a 90Ah battery in Less then a day while I expect it should be able to run at least 3 days.
Shure it 5.1A?
Post #347262 23rd Jul 2014 7:56pm
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Riyo



Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 89

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
its on the rating plate at the back of the fridge and doesnt sound much at 12v to me. The compressor only has to run when it needs to cool down the fridge approx 10%ish of the time so average current draw is in the region of 1A,

5.1A@12v = 60W

On a odyssey 1500 68ah not drawing down the battery down by more than around 40-50% that gives around 30hrs before the battery is down to around 50-60% and needs topping which is fine.

What i dont get is if its a 4A fuse why doesnt it blow when the compressor turns on and draws 5.1A... i must be missing something here
Post #347264 23rd Jul 2014 8:02pm
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Paddie42



Member Since: 24 Apr 2014
Location: Hamphire
Posts: 230

England 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Is it normal running current or starting current? A DC motor draws (from memory) about 4 or 5 x normal running current when starting for a very small amount of time. The time at this higher current isn't long enough to heat the fuse to blow.

Just a thought....
Post #347267 23rd Jul 2014 8:50pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
Most fuses will not blow immediately at their rated value, it takes a sustained over current (or a very much bigger one) to blow them. A 4A fuse will normally take at least 8A to blow it immediately and the likelihood is that with a 5A startup draw the current won't last long enough to actually blow the fuse. Once it's got started the current drops quickly so the sustained current draw will be lower than 4A. I measured the normal draw on our fridge a year or so ago and seem to remember it being in the region of 1.8A when it was running.

We have one of those fridges in the back of the 90, a single Odyssey 1500 will run it for at least 48 hours, even when it's over 30 degrees outside. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #347268 23rd Jul 2014 8:52pm
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Riyo



Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 89

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
ok thanks, good to know. Thumbs Up
Post #347273 23rd Jul 2014 8:58pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
The fuse inside the fridge is a 4 amp fridge.

The average current consumption of the ARB 47 is 0.87 amps/hr.

I do not know the start up current of the fridge.

A lot of figures refer to 12 volts whereas the nominal voltage of a car battery fully charged is 12.6 volts so current figures will change.

Have used one for years, both on 12 volt and 240 volt and never managed to blow the fuse yet!


Brendan
Post #347276 23rd Jul 2014 9:06pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
0.87A sounds a lot better then 5.1A. That's approx 4 days on a 90Ah battery.
Post #347539 25th Jul 2014 1:45pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Start up current is normally factored at 6 x for large motors that is why you have B, C and D type circuit breakers. D being the one with the highest starting current curve for heavier applications. Domestic in most cases they will all be B.

'Diversity' is the key here. For example if you have an electric cooker and individually add up all the individual heater elements the total current draw will be far in excess of the 40 amp rating of your breaker or fuse. Why protect it with only a 40 then? Simply because with the thermostats switching in and out it will never draw the maximum amount.
Same as a fridge, freezer or air conditioning unit, it has the maximum capacity if conditions are severe to draw in excess of the fuse that is protecting it. However in normal operating conditions it will not! If you have a failing unit by protecting it with the maximum fuse possible you will have no advance notice either before possible catastrophic failure. This is 'Diversity' in simple electrical terms.

You can also get slow blow, anti surge and quick rupture fuses the slow blow or anti surge are normally discernable by having a coiled element or an element suspended in a medium such as sand or porcelain powder. They also can be labelled with a '(T)' on the fuse.

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #347546 25th Jul 2014 2:23pm
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