 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Salisbury axle - rebuild or swap? |
 
|
|
|
| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967  
|
mine is a little leaky too! i suspect it is fairly straight forward to change. so long as you don't crush washer any further! i think i would like to put a late td5 puma rear axle in, incase i decide i would like a rear ATB. also easier to work on! not sure how much they go for though and would also need different prop i suspect. My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
||
23rd Apr 2014 10:32pm |
|
| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346 
|
From what I can tell....
Undo prop shaft, remove probably corroded split pin from castle nut, windy gun on castle nut and hold on tight, gently remove shaft, remove seal, clean and refit seal, replace shaft, finger tight castle nut, re torque castle nut and stop immediately on click, jack up rear wheels, rotate shaft and wheels in all directions to check for tight spots/nasty noises/play. I have looked at TD5 rear axles but there is something in me that just thinks a Salisbury is the stronger axle. |
||
|
23rd Apr 2014 10:43pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858 
|
Salisbury diff is stronger than P38 diff (Td5/Puma).
The "4-Pin" Rover diff is stronger than P38 but has never been fitted as standard in an LWB rear axle so there's no easy direct swap. |
||
|
23rd Apr 2014 10:51pm |
|
| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
|
Thanks Blackwolf
In an ideal world would love to have Salisbury front to match the rear but I don't think I can justify that sort of mod at this point... Anyway, anyone done a Salisbury nose seal before? |
||
|
23rd Apr 2014 10:56pm |
|
| Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Bramhall Posts: 1038  
|
I have, on my Series 2a which has a Salisbury rear fitted.
I removed the propshaft and marked the position of the main nut. Then made a tool to hold the flange steady (just a long bar with holes drilled to match 2 of the propshaft bolts. Used a Halfords Breaker bar to loosen the nut, and carefully removed it, counting the number of turns to get it off. Pulled out the drive flange. Replaced the seal. Refit drive flange. Replace nut and count the number of turns to put it back, and tighten exactly to the mark I made earlier. Refit propshaft. That was 7 years ago, and its done a lot since without problem. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV 1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy 1968 S2a 88 aka Bob 2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged. |
||
|
24th Apr 2014 8:20am |
|
| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
|
not a Salisbury but same principle!! My 109 thread my youtube channel |
||
|
25th Apr 2014 7:56pm |
|
| Interlet Member Since: 10 Oct 2011 Location: Norwich Posts: 461 
|
I have this dilemma in the back of my mind. For now, I think my Salisbury still has some life left in it (did find a few metal particles, going to drain again this weekend to fit new diff pan, so will be interesting to see if there are any more), but working on Salisbury axles are more effort than a Rover type, and a far more awkward diff to remove...
In my mind, it is a weigh up of ease of use, for repair and parts - the P38 Rover type, vs a stronger, yet more awkward Salisbury. Clearly, the P38 type 110 Rover axle was designed to be stronger than a front or 90 axle - so in general day to day activities, it's a non-issue, and it only gets interesting when off road. People always say Salisbury stuff is indestructible - but it isn't These things can still break, there just less likely to in extreme situations than the later type. But how extreme are most people planning on going? For casual Sunday P&Ps, are you really going to break a sweat that you are driving around with a P38 Rover type axle than an older military type? Probably not. If mine starts to break up, I'll be sorely tempted, after price considerations, to look for the 2002-onwards axle. 1998 110 300Tdi White Hard Top |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 1:14am |
|
| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 572  
|
I'm currently rebuilding 130 TD5 from HCPU to a Station wagon, because our Disco2 is not big enough for travelling in 4 people. I'll replace the rear Salisbury with standard Rover axle from Discovery 1, with Aschroft locker, 1:3,8 rack and pinnion wheels from KAM and some HD halfshafts. This combination is cheaper, than just a locker for salisbury. Rover axle with some upraded internals is much better than standard salisbury, and at least comparable to uprated salisbury. A friend of mine has nice Disco1 for offroad trophy events. He modiffied it with salisbury in front and rear and was repeatedly broking the internals. After switching back to modiffied rover, it is much better. And rover axle is smaller and much easier to maintain. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "BlufÃnek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
 |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 8:24am |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6031 
|
And if ground clearance is important to you, then the salisbury hangs down more than the 110/P38 type one.
Having said that, if you start welding bracings onto the later 110 axle, as per the military wolf type, then you'll be in similar territory of ground clearance to a salisbury. |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 9:14am |
|
| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
|
so does a disco 1 rear axle fit without any modifications? My 109 thread my youtube channel |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 10:38am |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6031
|
It will physically fit in yes,(just as a Salisbury will fit into the back of a 90 or disco or RR classic).....
But... I would say without any extra bracing welding onto it (the disco axle) then it wouldn't be strong enough for a 110 The proper 110 rover type rear casing is a lot thicker than a disco type See if Mountain_man chimes in... Mark braced up a disco axle for his 110 project I think. |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 11:31am |
|
| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
|
now i think about it, it would probably need bigger spring mounts to for the larger 110 springs!! My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 8:17pm |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6031
|
The spring mounts from 90 to 110 just swap over ; bolt spacing is the same
|
||
|
26th Apr 2014 9:07pm |
|
| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
|
Thanks For all the comments guys
Going to have a go with it and see how I get on. Will be posting pics too to make a how too! |
||
|
26th Apr 2014 10:25pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
