 | Home > Td5 > Shes died Again! |
 
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039   
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Cranking but not starting? I had the same problem when I bought my 90. It were the wires in the connector off the as10 alarm ecu. Corroded and making bad connection. Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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14th Mar 2014 10:36pm |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50 
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Success & Relief.
Lack of power and poor starting I think are down to an air leak in the fuel at the filter head which is corroded. Exhaust is broken - again lack of power. I thought the rattle was the PTO bearings. Fault codes cleared Charged the battery no difference except the glow plug relay stopped clicking. Put in 15L diesel. Bad earth at ECU ECU voltage dropping to 7.5V (probably flattened the battery from trying to start it several times & relay clicking again) Jump start from mates defender and eventually she fired. Fault codes - glow plug relay open. MAF sensor Codes cleared and now only MAF present. So not sure if it is due to a missing vital component causing the non-starting. I.e. lack of diesel. Yet the gauge reads 1/4 tank. Maybe this is the new pump not calibrated?? |
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16th Mar 2014 10:58am |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50
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I can't believe i'm back here again.
She's just done it agian. Exactly the same symtons as last time. I been driving her quite a bit all week and things have been grand. Iut and about today all good and then I went to nip out to the road end and it happened again. Started and a sec or 2 later she died. Only fault is MAF - new unit is on order. I have replaced the earth and wire brushed the chassis to bare metsl. Put in an extra heavy wire from eng. - chassis. Nothing. Battery is on charge with ecu unplugged. Any other ideas? Serioulsy thinking I will get a tdi series - its tax exempt and will fit in the garge. |
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23rd Mar 2014 9:51pm |
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205 
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Injector seals cause this, when it cranks but won't fire is the fuel pump running? If so I would change seals/washers as first port of call. Can usual get then to go with 1 or 2 fuel system purges
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23rd Mar 2014 9:57pm |
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| StephenO Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Glasgow Posts: 246 
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Sorry or hear that Ruari, thought you were past this. If it's any consolation I can't get mine started either. Don't think it's too bad an issue though, starter or solenoid hopefully!
Good luck 2007 Defender Puma Tonga Green
2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography Corrie Grey 1968 Series 2a Bronze Green 1995 Defender 90 Coniston Green 2005 Discovery 3 Zambezi Silver |
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23rd Mar 2014 9:58pm |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50
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Injector seals were replaced recently and when the engine is running its all pretty good. Ths shouldn't stop it running all of a sudden. And then it comes back to life for a week to stop all of a sudden again.
My train of thought is fuel pressure or lack of. - The car fires for a sec or 2 - so maybe just running the fuel in the injectors. I see RPM so not cranksensor. I can hear the fuel pump running so not a power issue. It turns over and rpm so not immobiliser. All tests performed on hawkeye are ok. |
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24th Mar 2014 10:56am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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Ruari,
Longshot stab in the dark but it's not the old 'oil in the ECU loom gremlin' perhaps? http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic18727.html?highlight=oil+loom From the opposite side of the coast to yourself but similar symptoms, couple of relays worth checking too... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic26832.html?highlight=oil+loom Just had a trawl through your issues as it has been going on for a while. I noticed you have changed the injector loom and found evidence of water ingress and corrosion into your original ECU. If you are able disconnect the ECU and carry out a thorough insulation check on the ECU harness itself perhaps? It could be the wiring is at fault if that too has had the same moisture ingress. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th Mar 2014 11:03am |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50
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Plugs at ecu are clean (I haven't checked at the rocker cover.)
I've removed the ECU to try it in my mates car this weekend and in the process of making a fuel pressure test gauge. |
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26th Mar 2014 10:02am |
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| achuakh Member Since: 12 Apr 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 157  
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Long shot, but it could be that the cat is choked.
I've had a police Td5 keep cranking over and over but won't fire. checked everything crank sensor, injectors, 10AS, MAF, wiring every possible thing you could think off for over 4 days. undid the downpipe, starts perfectly. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island. |
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26th Mar 2014 12:32pm |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50
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Keep the ideas doing guys.
No cat on this car - its a 2000 plate. I need to check if there is a vacuum in the fuel tank. And also try it with removing the air filter. You never know I may be lucky. I'm currently using an old fuel regulator pipe to make a fuel pressure gauge. Once I get a few pipe fittings in I will assemble it and post some pictures. I thought the threads were a 1/4 npt but the pipe fittings are slightly bigger. Any ideas? |
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27th Mar 2014 9:34am |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50
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So here is the test gauge.
Parts list: Fuel gauge reading upto 7bar with 1/8npt thread 1/4 npt T-piece 1/8 - 1/4 npt adaptor 2 x 1/4 npt hose tail ends 8mm. Hose clamps Fuel regulator pipe Tail end that screws into the regualtor.  Click image to enlarge Tests indicate just over 4 bar of pressure entering engine bit less than 2 bar coming out. Could be: 1. Blocked filter gauze in regulator. 2. Leaking regulator 3. leaking injector seals. All of which have been recently done. |
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5th Apr 2014 10:18am |
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| Ruari Member Since: 10 Dec 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 50
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Ok so fuel pressure going in a 4 bar is good.
Coming out doesn't matter - it's the return loop. So that's good I didn't have to take anything to bits. Its documented that the ECU requires 9v + otherwise it shuts down the car. In reality this is actually 10.5v. So whilst I thought my battery was good dropping to 10.2v this was shutting out the ecu. It also threw me off the fact the car started and ran for a second or 2 before dying. Anyway last night jump start from my courtesy defender it fired and ran ok. I need to order a new battery which is annoying as its only a couple of years old. |
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10th Apr 2014 10:59am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Just an aside but if your battery is dying after only 2 years
 perhaps check the resting current at one of the battery terminals (obviously with no key in the ignition, lights off etc.) - drain shouldn't be much above 30mA. Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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10th Apr 2014 11:13am |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 
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In your original post you mentioned about the main relay clicking while not starting, I had a very similar problem with my previous Td5, it drove me potty for a while but I eventually found the problem was due to electrical leakage between connections in the headers next to the ECU where the seatbox had been filled with water.
I cut out the headers and connected the relevant wires together in separate "bunches", soldered and heat-shrink covered, solved the fault completely.  Click image to enlarge |
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17th Apr 2014 9:58pm |
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