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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Shaggydogs Running Restoration
Moved from the "what did you do today topic" to keep it on track Thumbs Up

EDIT- renamed to reflect threads new purpose. If mods want it moved please feel free to do so

SKIP TO PAGE 3 TO BYPASS INDECISIVE DECISION MAKING ABOUT WHAT TO DO

My 91 110 has been a tough and reliable workhorse for many years now, owned by the environment agency from new she has been maintained meticulously, but unfortunately only mechanically.

I would argue that this is the better way to be as cosmeticly its only going to effect value, whereas mechanicals are all that relay matter in a vehicle.

However, she is now in need of some love.

Her bulkhead has got quite a hole in it (photos tomorrow-dark now) in the usual place between the windscreen hinges and the top of the wing, possibly down inside it too but can't tell. Its also holed above the air conditioning flaps and starting to show signs of tin rot in the same places on the drivers side too. On previous strip downs of the dashboard it has revealed there is also rot on the cabin side of the bulkhead too.

It is fair to assume that the rest of the bulkhead, while not physically showing signs of damage yet- is probably on the same route.

The recommended way to repair is- strip out dashboard- take off wings, take off bonnet, remove windscreen and start repairing. In my mind, it is not that much more effort to replace the whole bulkhead with a Galvanised bulkhead and be done with the welding. so were already talking £800+vat for a ashtree galv bulkhead before we even factor in for labour, which is the second stumbling block.

I don't have any covered workshop space big enough to hide a 110 in while work is done which unfortunately means I'm now looking at contracting the work out- which has so far been tentatively quoted as £1500 of labour given the amount of hours to do it.

There is also the added bonus of the windscreen rubber seal being very perished and needing replacing (as the windscreen could also do with a change as it has a few odd chips may as well combine this job into 1) the windscreen hinges are also quite warn and could do with replacing too- yet more cost.

The clutch I have got only to press the peddle down half an inch to find biting point and then de-clutch entirely so I fear the clutch is not much longer for this world. The actual clutch kit really isn't that expensive or difficult to do but again no covered space to do it plus needing to hire in ether an engine crane or gearbox jack to remove the gearbox and do it. While the clutch is being done the flywheel also needs to come off and the rear oil seal need replacing which again just needs some basic mechanic know how and the time to do it. I have been quoted £1047 for the whole lot done and dusted which is quite a considerable lump.

In addition the rear differential is drinking oil. I have to put in about half a litre once every 3 weeks. The diff cover has arrived and will be changed shortly but I would say 90% of the leaked oil is coming from the nose.
I have read up on this on various forums and the general consensus is ether have a go at fixing it yourself and hop you don't adjust the preload on the crush washers by accident- or buy a reconditioned axle and be done with it. Personally, as much as I'd like to keep her as original as possible the thought of a disk braked rear axle is a good one, and having been quoted £900 to replace the nose seal, or for roughly £795 get a whole new re-con axle and just swap them which can be done easily on the drive in a day so no labour costs. only parts.

And that's before I even start on my suspected injector knock.....

So, in a month I could very easily spend about £4302, which is pretty much what I bought her for a few years back. After which I would have a potentially very reliable vehicle. Unless.... the injector pump starts to play up, or more rust worm rears its head.

Alternatively, I could cut my losses and trade in my 110 (have been offered £2500) and use the £4k towards a deposit on a newer second hand 130 which could potentially have much less problems. That said what's to say that I wont again get bulkhead issues, more expensive repairs and problems which cant be fixed on the drive.


Decisions decisions.


Last edited by shaggydog on 27th Oct 2014 12:54pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #323197 11th Apr 2014 10:24pm
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redhandluke



Member Since: 02 Jun 2013
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 243

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Fuji White
Hey Shaggy,
Talks cheap and all, but it almost sounds like you've come to a reasonable conclusion. Nothing lives forever and you have to make your own mind up if the 110 is worth saving-in your circumstances. I had to do the same with a previous 90 and cut my losses. Other fcorum members may and probably will suggest different but if it makes financial sense sell it and buy something newer thats going to do your jobas long as it's a Defender Thumbs Up
Best of luck,
Steve
Post #323205 11th Apr 2014 11:29pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
Hmm think if it was me I would be looking for something newer,
There are plenty out there ! My 109 thread

my youtube channel


Last edited by g-mack on 2nd Nov 2016 1:47pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #323208 11th Apr 2014 11:54pm
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
I did a complete rechassis in my neighbours drive, and then very recently changed my clutch in my drive,no sign of any cover at all. My whole chassis change, including new bulkhead, chassis, suspension, brakes, and loads of other shiny bits came in around £2700, just wait a few weeks for the weather to improve, i'm sure its better than what we have up here Whistle Whistle 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #323218 12th Apr 2014 6:04am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Is there anything not needing a little TLC and a fat wallet?

**Edit** Forgot sorry.... Rolling with laughter

shaggydog wrote:
Meanwhile my filament bulbs continue to work flawlessly and have done since the day I got them...... Whistle


I had a Discovery in a similar condition to what you describe above, every time you think you've got it sorted something else creeps up on you and it becomes a 'money pit' consuming more and more of your time and money whilst frustration levels rocket skywards. Get shot and enjoy the Summer would be my own personal advice or you'll be spending most of it up to your proverbials in oil and grease under your truck without a penny to scratch you're ar53 with.

Keep the filaments as well for on your next truck, they may not be quite so reliable! Bow down

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #323221 12th Apr 2014 6:34am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Thanks for comments guys.

Thing is, engine runs beautifully, gearbox and transfer box have no backlash, bit of wear in the half shafts but its what I'd expect its not bad enough to replace yet. And as K9F has pointed out- lights all work perfectly Rolling with laughter

The injector knock seems to have cured itself today so will just keep an ear out for it, hopefully just a bit of crap got past the fuel filter but all is working now.

As I say, mechanically she is spot on.

Have decided against selling, can't find a nice enough 130 to tear me away from her within budget. I think its worth the investment just need more time to shop around and get some quotes.

Speaking to a friend who works for jaguar he agreed that £1047 for a clutch and rear oil seal was far too much money for a TDI so is going to see what he can do.

Someone has suggested putting some of this in the diff and seeing if it makes any difference http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...yId_255220

Anyone got any experiance?

As for the welding, well, can only shop around more and see what's best on offer.

Its not all doom and gloom Smile
Post #323397 12th Apr 2014 9:37pm
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Diablo



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 335

1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Keswick Green
Re: Again, Maintenence rather than modifications
Never tried that stuff, so couldn't comment.

As for the prices you were quoting in your first post, seems like you were going to a Rolls Royce dealer?!

Regarding a potential new vehicle - better the devil you know? I don't think that many 130s come up, certainly not cheap ones (unless they're cheap for a reason).


The bulkhead: it appears that it is fairly terminal - I would agree that a galv replacement would be better. Ashtree are v expensive, and I have heard mixed reviews historically. There is a chap on various forums, by the name of ghound. He is based in Ireland and repairs and galvs bulkheads and sells them on ebay - his work is excellent and I think I paid about £500 for mine, delivered.

Replacing it yourself isn't especially difficult, just time consuming. I can see how you would want someone else to do it.


Clutch: as you say, the kit is about £50 for an AP one. I have changed mine before by taking the gearbox out with the help of a couple of scaffold poles. not too difficult a job overall - probably a day's work for a novice with poles rather than a crane. Might even get away with using a jack and a helper.

Diff: spend the fiver on a new seal and give it a go yourself. Alternately, if you have a mate with a suitable press, rebuild the diff for the £30 odd it will cost for the bearings and seals.
Post #323885 15th Apr 2014 2:20pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I have definitely decided against selling up (unless the exact spec 130 right down to colour pops up) for many reasons but I feel that the rest of the vehicle is good enough to warrant the work!

Have been ringing and emailing around today again and have still been getting same sort of quotes of £1000+ so more I'm thinking its going to be about £2k all in.

Here is the damage


Click image to enlarge



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Click image to enlarge



Would love to do a galvanised replacement and to be honest am more than capable of doing it myself as it would just be unbolting and rebuilding and would probably take a lot more time getting it right, filling with cavity wax, soundproofing, painting, than anyone else would. Unfortunately its my only means of transport so has to be done fairly quick and I haven't got the workshop space to do it.


Speaking to an independent today they said that in order to fit a 130 clutch to a 110 they would also have to change the flywheel which would be about £400 worth of parts which I thought was a bit excessive! Does anyone know of a good supplier for a 200tdi clutch kit?

Suppose would make sense to fit a 110 clutch but have heard that 130 clutches are much heaver duty and last much longer- given the bother this has caused would rather fit and forget for the next few years! But is this justified I'm beginning to ask? I know the HD clutch is heavier but everyone who has ever driven my 110 has commented on how much heavier than normal it is so the weight isn't an issue to me at all.
Post #323951 15th Apr 2014 7:07pm
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Diablo



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 335

1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Keswick Green
I got my clutch (for a 90 admittedly) from Paddocks (sorry) for around £60. I know a fair few people do put the 130 clutch in, but I saw no need myself.

the pass. side bulkhead looks like rust held together with paint!
Post #324050 16th Apr 2014 9:08am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Update time!

Latest quote for the welding has come in at £1180+Vat.

Had a long chat with them and they explained how the dash would have to come out, the passenger wing would have to come out, the roof would have to come off. After that would need to be cut out, new patch worked in, would then need to be filled, sanded, stopped, primed, painted, after which would then need to reassemble wing replacing any broken fittings, reassemble the dash, refit the roof and reseal it. Quite a lot of work when considering your battling against 22 year old fixings and fittings.

Looking at the quality of there work (I was stood next to a very nice 110 and he turned and said this is one which has been done by us and honestly I could not see the repair and I was looking for it!) I am very impressed and would be happy to have it done there. He added that for roughly £2000 all in, could do the conversion from CSW to USW which is something I have wanted to do for a while. Reason being the roof is off anyway and would mean all could be done sealed in together which should eliminate any leaks.

What do we reckon?
Post #324169 16th Apr 2014 10:06pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3748

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Glad you're keeping your "old friend".
It appears that you're going to spend some serious dollars,....which probably should have been spent gradually, over the years, as the issues arose?
Anyway, maybe you can't do this stuff all at once, my only suggestion is, even if it does cost a few dollars, do each job properly when you do it, then you won't ever have to worry about that part again.
I'm pretty hopeless at mechanical stuff myself, so I always have to pay to get stuff done, ...and I don't mind paying, as long as the job's done right.
Cheers, Pickles.
Post #324174 16th Apr 2014 10:11pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Bulkhead seems worse than expected.
Hello all!

had a bit of a further poke and prod today and to my shock found the bulkhead has got rot fairly well set in behind the dash panels Big Cry

Its weird, the foot wells, A-posts are the most prone to rust yet it has rotted at the top of the bulkhead and behind the dashboard!

So it is pretty much beyond economic repair as to repair all the rot would have to cut the top of the Bulkhead from the top of the foot wells up off and make new at which point you may as well just get a new one.

So, this leaves me with a headache... where can I find a rot free 200Tdi bulkhead for reasonable money.

Have had a scout around and most of them seem to be re-manufactured- this worry me because potentially there is rot still within them so would do the same thing leaving me back at square 1.

One option I have thought of is should I look at Equicar or similar and get a complete TDCI bulkhead and bodge it to fit a TDI so you have TDCI dash and bulkhead- but in a Tdi.

Any Suggestions? (or offers of a rot free bulkhead Razz)
Post #333270 24th May 2014 4:47pm
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uncas



Member Since: 22 Nov 2012
Location: Wentworth near Rotherham
Posts: 340

United Kingdom 
Shaggydog a friend of mine has a very good bulkhead complete with dash which has td5 clocks in. It was scheduled to be fitted to a 110 but Gary her husband died .Sue is away at the moment I'll give her a call tonight if you are interested. Sue sold her 110 so it's now in her way.

Uncas
Post #333397 25th May 2014 9:06am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Uncas- Would be interested, I need to have a chat with the guys who will be doing the work if they are going to supply the bulkhead or if I need to source it, in which case I would be very interested if it is in good condition.

On the brighter side of things went around and topped up all the oils but was pleased to find that most only needed a dribble. Apart from the gearbox which needed about half a litre worryingly.
Post #333693 26th May 2014 11:03am
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Diablo



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 335

1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Keswick Green
Changing a bulkhead isn't a fun job and certainly not one you want to do more than once - get a galvanised one.
Post #333933 27th May 2014 3:21pm
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